Posted by: 1000fish | February 5, 2024

No! Not the Smoothie!

DATELINE: NOVEMBER 13, 2022 – PUERTO PENASCO, MEXICO

Part of fishing, especially species-hunting, is timing. Each day might have only a golden hour where the fish are really biting – if you’re lucky. Sometimes even a few golden minutes can make it all worthwhile. But it gets worrisome to write a blog about a three-day trip that, like Cousin Chuck’s first date, was marked by perhaps 15 golden seconds. (And five of those were watching The Mucus slip and fall in a tidepool.)

The destination – Puerto Penasco, Mexico – has become a traditional “last hurrah” of the season with the Moore family. I have been to Rocky Point six times, and this means we have to face the math of diminishing returns. Still, there are always a few species to chase, notably that awful Cortez stingray that I irrationally blame Carson Moore for taking away from me. And this time, we would be joined by great friend Gerry Hansell.

I always leave for this trip knowing that will be the last meaningful fishing of the year – once we’re back to our respective homes, holiday season is in full swing. There are lights to put up, parties to plan, and relatives to avoid. 

This all has to be up and running by the day after Thanksgiving, or Santa will be angry.

And so we did the traditional meeting in Phoenix and the traditional piling into Chris’ truck early the next morning. Gerry got stuck in the back with The Mucus, and I must say he was very patient with the drooling and food throwing. (But Gerry has children and pets of his own, so he was ready.) Sadly, Carson was on a church mission and would not be joining us. It’s about a four hour drive, loaded with desert scenery.

The truck of Chris. Big, comfortable, and no one minds if you spill a bag of Fritos on the floor. And no one minds if you eat them later.

The road trip conversation is always entertaining, unless The Mucus gets going on politics or global warming. Speaking of global warming, The Mucus actually caused some. Chris was subtly delighted to share a story involving Brayden and one of his first attempts to cook for himself. He tried to prepare something less than advanced – prepackaged rice – but somehow, it went very wrong. 

This is what he ended up with. Not edible, but they’re still using it as a doorstop.

We arrived in Penasco and jumped onto a boat with Eduardo, another very solid local guide.

That’s me and Eduardo, photobombed by The Mucus.

While the weather was decent and the scenery was gorgeous as always, the Moores and I were mostly stumbling into the same species we had seen previously – triggerfish, sergeants, triggerfish, and grunts. Gerry, a Penasco newbie, was doing quite well, as most of the normal Sea of Cortez fish were new to him.

Note that Gerry has a properly-applied Scopolamine patch behind his right ear. Note that he is upright. These facts are related.

Gerry added several species on the boat, including his first Cortez bonefish. 

   

These are always a thrill – pound for pound, one of the hardest-fighting fish in the world.

And his first Pacific-side sand perch. It made me fondly remember how thrilled I was with my first one, and how not thrilled I was with my 400th.

I just kept catching the same Cortez grunt over and over.

This is a Cortez grunt. “Cooooortez grunt” is also the noise Chris makes when he gets seasick. It sounds like someone trying to speed-gargle scrambled eggs.

But the waters were calm and the medication was effective, so Chris’ breakfast stayed put.

Day two on the boat was more of the same – a lot of fun catching inshore species on light tackle, but nothing new for me. Gerry continued tacking on a few, which is always nice to see, but let’s face it, I would have preferred I was catching at least the occasional new species. 

The porgies were especially plentiful, and these things pull hard on a trout rod.

Lovely scenery, but what I noticed first was that flock of birds. Unfortunately, there was nothing under them.

No, the Mucus was not actually barfing. But for that majority of you who just look at the pictures, that’s how you’ll remember it.

We also tried shore fishing each evening, but alas, the Moores and I got only the usual suspects. (Gerry again added a few, which is nice, but, you know, not as nice as something new for me.)

Gerry starts stacking up the blennies.

We did have one startling moment that afternoon. We made a quick stop to get some Pepsis. Gerry, who is frighteningly intelligent, relentlessly reasonable, and an even more cautious eater than I am, randomly wandered off and got a fruit smoothie – from a street vendor. He consumed half of it before I noticed and pointed out that he was now at high risk for spectacular food poisoning. From my own awful experience, I fear street food and the only stuff I would ever buy from a street vendor would have to be in a can that was sealed in the American Midwest.

While I am happy to report nothing happened to Gerry, amoebic dysentery wasn’t out of the question and would have made for a more exciting story, which we would have called “Gerry Discovers Flagyl.” I never like to see a friend sick, but I have also never outgrown the urge to say “I told you so.” I was certainly surprised to see Gerry show a culinary adventurous side, or an iron stomach, and the fact that this was the most exciting thing that had happened so far tells us how bad the fishing was for me.

The inadvisable smoothie.

There were some lovely sunsets.

On our last day, we had planned a deepwater charter for big grouper, but the wind came up and they advised us to cancel. Limited to shore fishing, we decided to mix it up and try a spot recommended by old friend Dom Porcelli that was alleged to have a small permit relative called a Paloma Pompano.

For a tourist town in Mexico, beach access was way too complicated. The spot we had from Dom was in the middle of two big hotels, and they were flat-out hostile to the idea of guest parking. Even the normal offers of small-scale bribery didn’t help our cause. We ended up parking in a golf course lot about a mile away, and, despite the fact that the course was closing and so the place was almost empty, the attendant still really had a problem with us. I know this sort of redistribution of resources sounds socialist, but politics are unimportant when fishing is involved. So we took our chances and parked there. (The attendant went home and dutifully locked the gate, but Chris went all monster truck and four-wheeled us out over a curb and possibly some landscaping.)

When we got down to the beach, I was nearing desperation. We set up small sabikis with shrimp tidbits, and began casting to likely-looking seams. About half an hour later, I started getting tiny taps, and before long, I hooked something. Saying pompano prayers, I reeled it in, and OH HELL YES, it was the target species. 

So thank you Dom. On a side note, that is the most hateful look I have ever seen Chris give. I am certain this is the look he gives students who don’t pay attention, and it gives me chills. I can only presume he hadn’t gotten a pompano yet.

Seriously. I take one look at this and want to apologize, and I don’t even know for what.

Fortunately, everybody got a pompano at some stage that afternoon.

Gerry’s fish, handsomely photographed.

I kept casting and got a few more pompano, and then a small miracle occurred. I got an elongate grunt – another new (and completely unexpected) species.

 

The elongate grunt. Chris also got one, but The Mucus did not, and as immature as this will sound, I was delighted. This was lifetime species number 2118 for me.

  

The gang poses for a selfie. Chris must have caught the pompano by now, because the hateful look is gone. Gerry is smiling because 24 hours had passed without him developing dysentery.

I also caught a gulf grunion, a species I had caught but misidentified on my first Penasco trip, so it was good to get a photo upgrade and an ID clarification. While I was content with two for the trip, Gerry had quietly added 15 – so nice work!

 

I got my first one of these on the “Marching Band From Hell” trip in 2015.

And with those 10 golden seconds, we closed out the fishing year and headed back to Phoenix. Gerry and I flew out the next morning, and we were all off to our respective holiday seasons. Of course, no Thanksgiving is complete without the Michigan/Ohio State football game – perhaps the ultimate confrontation of good vs. evil. (And yes, Marta, and most of my friends, relatives, therapists, and neighbors think I take this game too seriously, but we’re talking good vs. evil here, so there is no such thing as “too seriously.”)

Happily, good prevailed. Resoundingly, because evil can’t defend the run.

 

And a merry if belated Christmas 2022 to everyone.

While it was a quiet and beautiful holiday, there was planning afoot for a January trip that was certain to be memorable and hopeful to be epic. The first fish I would catch in 2023 would be 10,257 miles from home – pull out your globes and make your guesses, and we’ll tell you the whole story in about two weeks.

Steve

 

 

 

 

 

Posted by: 1000fish | January 23, 2024

Eight is Enough. (Or is it?)

DATELINE: OCTOBER 10, 2022 – RURAL WESTERN KENTUCKY

Running up a big species list takes sacrifices, and losing sleep is high on the list – but all-nighters are not to be taken lightly at age 59. Sure, I gave them no thought in college, whether it was finally doing the required reading the night before an exam, or a party that got out of hand and ended up with us mooing at passing cars as the sun rose. The trip described below was not designed to take place in 26 hours – it was meant for a much longer time period – but circumstances being what they were, I was glad we toughed it out.

It all began with two gracious Hoosier invitations. Steve Ramsey, who has steadfastly supported Indiana football since the leather helmet days, keeps inviting me to IU/Michigan games even though I show up in maize and blue and the Wolverines typically blast the Hoosiers like a directional school creampuff. And Ron Anderson, half of the fabled Ron and Jarrett species-hunting duo, kindly offered to take me south for a couple of days of fishing. As I continued looking at sports schedules, it turned out that the next weekend featured another Indiana game and then a Colts game, and Steve, against the advice of friends, neighbors, and the authorities, invited me for the whole week-plus. The result – two days of fishing, three football games, and nine days of Skyline Chili. If that isn’t a winner of an itinerary, I don’t know what is.

I arrived in Indianapolis on October 6, a Thursday. Steve and I promptly ate at Skyline Chili.

Skyline Chili. It’s a food group, and, about six hours later, a medical condition.

We then went over to Ron and Carol’s to watch the Colts play the Broncos. It was, I dare say, the worst NFL game I have ever seen that didn’t involve the Lions. There were botched plays, turnovers, and the constant whining of Russell Wilson. The Colts prevailed in overtime, but we were just glad to turn off the TV and be done with it.

The end of a truly awful contest. Russell Wilson is offscreen to the right, having Malcolm Butler flashbacks.

And then THIS was facing me back in Steve’s guest room.                                 

The following day, we ate dinner with my old friend Pam, at a well-known Indianapolis institution – the Rathskeller. Although both Steve and this restaurant have been in town for at least two world wars, he had somehow never eaten there previously. (To Carol’s rather loudly-expressed surprise.)

An Indianapolis classic. Carol has also made it famous in Iowa.

But all this friendship was swept aside the next day, as we headed to Bloomington for what Steve was certain would be an epic IU upset. Sometimes, I just want to smile and pat him on the head. 

A-10 flyover before the game. These things can destroy tanks almost as quickly as Michigan can destroy IU’s defense.

In a game that was close until shortly after the coin toss, Michigan prevailed, 31-10.

I kind of stood out in the IU Athletic Alum section.

But there were other UM fans there. There are two Hoosiers in the photo – see if you can guess which one had been drinking.

I was supposed to fish the next couple of days, which Ron figured could take us through some prime spots in Kentucky and Tennessee. But somewhere in the text string, a schedule misunderstanding became obvious. I had thought we were coming home Tuesday night. Ron – who has lots of adult responsibilities that I don’t, like two kids and three cats – actually needed to be home Monday night. So we made the best of it, but I recognized that this would mean very little sleep, a tall order at my age. But there were so many possibilities that I wasn’t going to let exhaustion get in my way – Red Bull can work wonders, and failing that, laxatives can keep anyone on their toes.

Our first stop was right in Bloomington. The recent longear sunfish splits had left me in a conundrum – I had caught most of them, but not photographed them because they were all just longears at the time. My photos were all of the Rio Grande version, so I needed to get the others, starting with the original, which was abundant in a local creek.

The O.G. longear sunfish.

The creeks here are gorgeous.

We then headed south. As we were trying to compress as many spots as possible into one overnighter, Ron had trimmed things down to a “run and gun” approach – hitting spots that he knew held at least one “slam dunk” species, trying to get that fish, and hitting the road again quickly. It was a long haul through Indiana to western Kentucky, and the evening would take us to a mashup of spots hopscotching between Kentucky and Tennessee. 

Conversations on these road trips range far and wide. Ron is a bit more quiet than I am – most people are – but I did get him going about a road trip he did to Arkansas with Jarrett and Cody from Ohio. These are young guys, and so road trips tend to be more compressed and budget-conscious, but this went a bit extreme. Not only did they sack out in the truck for several unwashed days, but there were some disastrous packing mishaps. Ron, who I believe sleeps in his waders, somehow forgot them. He also did not bring extensive (or possibly any) extra clothing, so not only did he get bitten up by insects and blown up with poison ivy, he also never quite got dry. This combination left Ron’s entire lower body festering with some sort of trench foot/swamp groin thing that took weeks to clear up. Cody, out of support for Ron, did all his wading in rubber deck boots, so after a few days, he had a bleeding ring chafed around each calf that I swear went down to the bone. Jarrett seems to have survived unscathed, and they did all catch a bunch of fish, which is worth facing chafing and fungus.

Our first stop netted something truly strange that I have admired in books for years – a cavefish. These creatures live in crevasses and caves, some of them never seeing daylight in their lifetime. This particular one was a spring cavefish, which lives deep in springs but ventures out at night. It took a few tries and a heartbreaking mid-air dropped hook, but I finally got one. Say what you will about spending hours on small fish, but seeing something like this fills me with wonder at the amazing diversity of the fish world. A chance to catch something like this is why I love the sport so much – only a handful of people have ever seen one of these in person.

One of the weirder fish I have gotten on my Midwestern adventures.

We then hit the road for another hour and made another the “run and gun” stop. It was a small creek rumored to have a population of Guardian darters, another one of the very localized species found throughout the midwest. They were there, they bit, and we were back on the road. It was already 11 at night.

The Guardian darter, species three of the trip and 2111 lifetime.

We then drove two more long hours, going from interstates to state highways to rural roads to dirt tracks that went miles back into the woods.

I mused how much I had come to trust Ron, because these are exactly the kinds of places where bodies are dumped in low-grade horror films that involve depraved power-tool maniacs and exceptionally stupid teenagers. At about 1am, we pulled up at a dead end with the classic “bridge out” sign, and parked the car. It took me a moment to put on my waders – but Ron will never, EVER takes his off again. The embankment was a bit dicey, but even from a distance, I could see it was darter heaven – shallow, some current, an assortment of rock sizes and structures. We got down there, set up the micro rigs, and despite the 39 degree temperature, action started quickly. The first score was a brighteye darter.

The brighteye darter, number four of the trip.

About an hour later, I got a firebelly darter, the fifth species of the evening.

And 2113 lifetime. The only disadvantage to fishing this late in the season is that the fish are not in their spawning colors, but hey, a species is a species, and they’re still beautiful.

It was another hour, pushing 4:30am, when I got another new species. This is not to say there wasn’t constant action the entire time. We caught plenty of darters – and madtoms – we had gotten previously, and we also wasted quite a bit of time trying for sand darters, which were present but do not eat food. Ever. But at some stage before the sun came up, I zeroed in on a darter that looked different than everything else I had seen and got it to bite. To even Ron’s surprise, it was a Gulf darter – very unusual this far north.

Again, not the most colorful specimen, but that’s six for the day.

As the first light was beginning to show, I reached the limit of my endurance, and luckily, so did all my headlamps, so I had an excuse to leave and find a local hotel for a quick nap. I think Ron would have been ok with me leaving him there, but he reluctantly came along when I mentioned that I thought I saw some guy wandering through the woods with a chainsaw. 

I don’t remember taking this picture.

After a couple of hours of shuteye in some off-brand place in rural Kentucky or Tennessee, I forget which, we saddled up again and drove off to hit a couple of spots Ron knew on the way home. I was so wiped out I made a memorable hygiene mistake.

Oh, like you wouldn’t have missed this too.

Wading through a few small creeks buoyed by Red Bull and hope, I was likely not at my best. (But neither was Peyton Manning when he won his second Super Bowl, and I always take inspiration from that. And we both knew that if we dropped something, Cam Newton wouldn’t try to pick it up.)

I missed at least two slough darters because I pretty much stepped on them, but just as we were ready to head elsewhere, I found one that clearly was not as smart as the other slough darters. It stayed cooperatively in the open and snapped at every bait I presented, allowing itself to be hooked and dropped twice before I landed it and added number seven of the trip.

And number 2115 overall. Life was very good, despite the fact that my bladder wrote me an official letter of protest after the sixth Red Bull.

At the next creek, we, and by “we,” I mean “Ron,” had a terrifying close call. Part of looking for darters is flipping over rocks and poking under banks. This should be done with great caution, as some of these same hidey holes contain unpleasant wildlife, like snapping turtles and snakes. 

For example, this is me inadvisably poking around prime serpent territory.

I was perhaps 150 feet upstream of Ron, who (thank goodness) had started using a stick to explore the undercut shoreline. I heard a noise – let’s call it a manly grunt of alarm, because I wouldn’t want to call it the high-pitched stream of bad words it really was. I turned around to see Ron in full Wile E. Coyote mode, feet spinning backwards in place on top of the water with a large, irritated cottonmouth in hot pursuit. Luckily, he got away, but it was a sobering reminder to be careful out there.

Safe due to his excellent reflexes, Ron breathes a sigh of relief. I would have wet my waders.

We made one more stop on the way home, chasing what Ron described as an outside shot at a bandfin darter. I entered the water with low confidence, clinical exhaustion, and snake awareness, and I nearly stepped on a darter. Ron eased up next to me and verified it was the right one, and it bit immediately. 

The beast.

The triumphant anglers. I was ready for a nap, but we had five hours of driving ahead of us.

So that was it for the catching on this trip – eight species in less than 24 hours of fishing. That doesn’t happen for me very often. I can’t thank Ron enough for going with me, and Ron and Jarrett for their incredible knowledge of the area.

But notice I said the catching was over, but not the fishing. Because I had such a long stretch in the Midwest, and because Steve likely reached the limits of his hostly patience when a batch of redworms escaped in his immaculate refrigerator, I decided to head for Columbus, Ohio. Cody Cromer, who is one of my lifetime heroes because he helped me get a bluebreast darter, was kind enough to meet me in central Ohio and give it a try for variegate darters. 

Success has many parents, but I was the single mother of failure that day. Cody must have shown me at least six variegates, and I managed to spook or miss them all.

The river was absolutely gorgeous. And full of variegate darters.

Steve and Cody, as he tries his level best not to burst into laughter at my inability to hook a variegate.

That night, I had dinner in Columbus with two very dear old friends – Scott “K-Man” Kisslinger, one of the greatest wiffleball pitchers in history, except for one notable meltdown, and Sue Niezgoda, who is probably better at wiffleball than either one of us.

Yes, I wear Michigan stuff at restaurants in the middle of Columbus.

I headed back to Indianapolis Thursday evening for another Skyline dinner. Marta took the redeye into Indianapolis on Friday morning, went straight to the art museum to let Steve and I sleep in, and then joined us for a weekend of sports and fried food. Although she had been through Indianapolis before, this was her first stop for any length of time. 

Marta irrationally hates John Elway, so Steve prepared her a special pillowcase.

At the circle in the center of downtown Indianapolis. I used to work – and met Steve Ramsey – in a building just out of the shot to the left.

Saturday was a return trip to Bloomington to watch the Hoosiers get blasted by Maryland. It was still a beautiful fall day, and Steve gave Marta a better tour of campus than he ever gave me. What the heck.

Steve and Marta in some alum building I had never seen before.

A tribute to “Breaking Away,” one of Marta’s favorite movies.

Before kickoff, so the game was still close.

As things got out of hand, a group of IU supporters decided it was a good idea to take their shirts off and wave them around. Unfortunately, they were all men, and unfortunately for them, it had gotten rather cold. They didn’t seem to care.

I’m guessing beer was involved, but you have to respect their commitment.

They even made ESPN. Note that the Michigan score happens to be on screen.

Sunday was the big event. Ron and Carol, Steve’s best friends from college, were hosting a large group of family at a Colts game and generously invited us, mostly because Carol likes Marta.

Lucas Oil Stadium – “The House That Peyton Built.”

Speaking of Peyton Manning.

We got to watch a thrilling Colts victory over Jacksonville, and even though I think it was the last game they won that season, it was still a great experience. 

The whole gang poses for a photo post-game. A big thanks to Ron and Carol for putting it all together and including us.

After the game, we wandered the downtown area, taking in more sights and mocking the fact that Trevor Lawrence has better hair than Taylor Swift. Dinner could not have been better – we managed seats at St. Elmo’s steakhouse, an Indianapolis landmark that I first experienced in 1989.

It was founded the year before my grandfather was born. 

St. Elmo’s is also famous as the favorite steakhouse of Parks and Recreation’s Ron Swanson.

We are standing in the exact spot where they filmed dinner in the “Two Parties” episode. If you don’t know what I’m talking about, please take the week off work and binge-watch the whole thing. It will make your life better.

Marta and I flew home the next evening, but not before I gave the elusive goldeye a shot in a river south of Indianapolis. I failed, again, but I did catch something memorably unexpected.

A shovelnose sturgeon, first caught by me in Nebraska with Martini in 2015.

And so we were back in California, putting up the Halloween lights and preparing to watch such terrifying fare as “It’s the Great Pumpkin, Charlie Brown.” There would be one more major fishing trip before the weather and the holidays set in, and if I had known how badly it was going to turn out, I would have … oh who am I kidding. I still would have gone.

Steve

 

 

Posted by: 1000fish | December 24, 2023

I Made It After All

DATELINE: SEPTEMBER 22, 2022 – DULUTH, MINNESOTA

Covid had seemed to wreak havoc on almost everything – everything from toilet paper to Taco Bell was suddenly much harder. Even simple gatherings with friends took on an element of risk unseen since the 1350s. One of our most beloved rituals lost in the pandemic was our annual “Deja Bru” trip. For the uninitiated, these are an annual autumn excursion Marta and I make with two great friends from Indianapolis – Steve Ramsey, and his college friends Ron and Carol “The Facebuster” Feeney. The idea is to pick a town that has a baseball and football game on the same weekend, and then experience the local culture in the meantime. We’ve been to places as varied as Milwaukee and Detroit, and the rescheduled target would be Minneapolis. As a Detroit fan, I am bitter toward the Twins, especially their ill-gotten 1987 ALCS win, but I would try to get over it for a few days at least.

An actual Wheaties box with the 87 “champs.” It has its own museum, and is the single most sacred thing in the state. It’s even more sacred than Fran Tarkenton’s Super Bowl ring because, well, there isn’t one.   

Some of you have actually asked “Steve, do you ever take a vacation that doesn’t involve fishing?” This blog has been going on for 13 years, and if you don’t know the answer, you must be a new reader. Welcome! Sure, I can pretend I’m going someplace for a cultural experience, but I’m going to find a way to try for a species, even if it’s a longshot.

Fishing on this trip was fairly straightforward – I flew in a couple of days early, rented a car, and headed for western Wisconsin. Species-hunting genius Tim Aldridge generously forwarded a few prime spots, and I also had some great info from old friend Mike Channing. There were perhaps seven solid targets, more than enough to fill up a day and a half, then head back to Minneapolis to meet the gang. 

United was somehow on time, and I was soon in a rental car heading east through a perfect, warm evening. My first target, the central mudminnow, is a nocturnal creature, so I had plenty of time to hit Walmart for worms and I actually found a Culver’s for dinner. (Oddly enough, it was the only indoor dining I found. Everything else had gone carryout – lame.)

Culver’s is awesome. This is the best thing Mike Channing introduced me to, just ahead of the lake sturgeon.

Well after dark, I pulled up to a random culvert that Mike had suggested for mudminnow. I rigged up a tenkara rod and explored a series of weedy pools. I got a few nice shiners, but alas, that was all that would bite. Even though I was on public property, the local farmer was certain I was up to no good and kept driving by me, slowly, with a spotlight array reminiscent of WWII nighttime air defenses. As a thunderstorm moved in, I decided it was time to get some sleep. 

The fishing was near the intersection of “NO.” You think I would have gotten the hint.

I stopped in Neillsville, Wisconsin, a quiet farming town near a bunch of Tim’s spots. I went to sleep dreaming of dace species and an outside shot at a blackside darter. This is when the Fish Gods decided things should be more challenging. Temperatures plummeted, going from a solid 85 to a low around 38. I suppose I should have looked this up, but I was going to try it either way, so I just let myself be surprised. 

The spots were all medium-sized creeks, easy to access and beautifully clear. The first two produced nothing but creek chubs, which seem oblivious to weather. The other species seemed to have shut off, but I had all day and I am nothing if not stubborn. 

The classic creek chub, the first fish species I ever caught by myself.

The third creek was gorgeous.

This gives me wet wading dreams.

I inspected it from a low bridge, and could see several redhorse feeding their way up deeper seams. Even though I have gotten the species before, this was too much to pass up.

I caught three – nice fights and sight fishing is always a thrill.

I then tried the micros. I put on a small sabiki because there was a rocky side pocket that had some interesting fish flitting in and out of the structure. I caught a couple of nondescript Notropis, but something darker kept dashing out of the rocks. I cast again, and the fish finally came out and got hooked. It was a darter, and likely something I hadn’t caught before, so, heart in my throat, I tried to gently ease it out of the water and up onto the bridge. At the same moment, the sabiki weight got stuck in the rocks, leaving the fish splashing on the surface. Sweating profusely, I assessed my options, which didn’t seem good. There was no shore access – it was steep and overgrown – and trying to yank it out would likely break off the fish. I finally tried to put steady pressure on the weight, which left the fishing hanging about eight inches above the water. Just as I thought the line would break, the weight suddenly came free and the whole rig came hurtling directly at my head. I ducked, and some of the stray hooks embedded in my shirt. I looked down, and, against all reason, there was the darter.

It was a blackside darter, a new one, and the whole trip was worth it.

There were supposed to be several other species here, and I love wading around creeks, so I spent much of the day poking around riffles and seams, and while I did get the occasional fantail darter, it was mostly creek chubs the rest of the day.

I will hate fantails until the day they finally split them. I know there is a Carolina – I have that one – but I hear rumors of a Chesapeake Fantail. If anyone can find a reliable source on this, I’ll buy them dinner.

The weather was clear but windy, and much colder than the day before, so stuff was off. But I still had a species in the bag. 

A country road in Western Wisconsin.

I decided to drive a few hours north to set up for a dace spot in the morning. The scenery was beautiful midwestern farmland, glorious in the setting sun. I passed a number of streams and ponds, and the central mudminnow kept crossing my mind. Mike had told me they live in the stillest, weediest backwaters, and just at dusk, I spotted a random weed-choked little side channel and decided to stop.

This place just screamed “Central Mudminnow!”

Using a micro-sabiki loaded with bits of redworm, I carefully eased the baits into a break in the weed mat. There was a tiny bite. Then another. And another. I lifted gently and pulled up two central mudminnows. Mike’s advice has been perfect. I stayed and caught seven more, but darkness and hunger eventually took me away.


That was two species for the day, taking me to 2107.

Then I drove off into the night. I couldn’t find another Culver’s, so dinner ended being Red Bull and cheese curds, which is (barely) not as bad as it sounds.

I recommend taking a lot of fiber with these.

I found a hotel near a possible Iowa darter spot from Mike, so I could give that a go in the morning.

Dawn was clear, windy, and cold. The darter spot looked great, but the temperature change had clearly shut things down. I’ll be back there, but in the meantime, I had a few more hours to get to Amnicon State Park, up toward Duluth. There were supposed to be a couple of different dace species here, but often, having a mark on a map and actually finding your way to it are two different things. After wasting an hour crashing through a poison ivy-laden swamp, I drove around to the main park entrance and a kind-hearted ranger directed me to the pond in question.

It was a gorgeous walk – a place I could hiked all day except that I had about 30 minutes to catch the fish and race back to Minneapolis for dinner.

It was a beautiful spot.

When I found the pond, my heart sank. Access looked cliffy and terrifying – the kind of place only Luke Ovgard would try.

It’s steeper than it looks.

I finally found a way down to the water, and the fish were thankfully cooperative.

They turned out to be Northern Pearlscale Dace, species 2108.

I tried the creek on the way out, but it was jammed with creek chubs, which is always a sign to leave. I had a long drive ahead of me to Minneapolis, where Marta was already shopping, and the rest of the gang – Steve, Ron, and Carol – would soon be arriving.

I got to race a train on the way back.

I got to Minneapolis late afternoon, got rid of the rental car, and headed downtown to start the cultural stuff. Marta had already been all over town, and had discovered a book – Bunnicula.

I have no idea how this never became a movie.

Downtown Minneapolis was surprisingly vibrant – a lot of restaurants, theaters, and shopping. Our main concern was to keep Carol from “accidentally” punching Steve, so we sat them on opposite sides of the table and enjoyed a great dinner. Walking back to our hotels, passed the Mary Tyler Moore statue.

This is another cultural reference lost on my younger readers, but the MTM show, a Saturday night staple in the 70’s, was both groundbreaking and hilarious, especially the “Chuckles the Clown” episode, which we went home and found on YouTube. Still the funniest funeral ever.

We played tourist on Saturday – the Mill City Museum was especially interesting, especially the Washburn portion, which blew up in 1878. (Who knew flour dust is flammable?)

Tribute to some local musician.

We also visited the Mall of the Americas, which is built on the site of old Metropolitan Stadium.

This marks the 5o yard line of the football field. I made a little history – I was wearing a Lions jersey, so I am the only thing in Lions gear to ever cross midfield in that stadium.

Marta and Steve call out Kirk Gibson at home plate.

Toward evening, we walked to Target Field, to see the Twins play the Angels.

Pre-game rituals.

I had been to one other Twins game, in 1990, but that was a different stadium, so this would count as a new one. (Ramsey and I hope to see a game at every current MLB stadium before we die.) We were joined by old fishing buddy Bob Reine and his wife Shari.

From left, that’s Marta, Steve, Steve, Bob, Shari, Carol, and Ron.

I’ve been fishing with Bob off and on for the past 30 years, and we’ve shared some amazing trips, including my first (and only) three muskies.

We gritted out a Twins loss in light drizzle. Dinner that night was steak, always a favorite, and as we get late in these evenings, there always seems to be a new Ron/Carol/Steve college story, which typically begins with Carol getting Steve in trouble and ends with Little Bit biting someone.

The five of us after dinner. Carol is waiting for us to all look away so she can elbow Steve in the cheek.

The next day, we had tickets to watch my beloved Lions play Minnesota. The first NFL game I ever attended was also the Lions losing to the Vikings, on a miserable, sleeting day at Tiger Stadium with my father in the mid-1970s. And yes, even though the Vikings venue was amazing, the result was the same – the Lions wrenched a defeat out of the jaws of victory, which made Bob happy.

The field. It’s one of the best venues in the league, except that the Viking play there.

I’m still a bit annoyed at Ramsey for outfitting everyone with Vikings gear. Fun fact – everyone in this photo has won just as many Super Bowls as Fran Tarkenton, and, unlike Jim Marshall, we left the stadium heading the right direction.

Post-game, Steve, Ron, and Carol hit the road for the long drive back to Indianapolis, and Marta and I had dinner with Bob and Shari. It was great to relive some of the old fishing trips with Bob and our Macromedia days together. Marta and I flew out early the next day, taking off about the same time that there was an incident at a restaurant in a small town in central Iowa, that involved Ron, Steve, and Carol, mostly Carol. Until the lawyers can straighten out all the facts, I won’t report details, but suffice to say that the Ottumwa Ladies Prayer Brunch will never be the same.

Once we got home, my main task was to repack with clean underwear and new football jerseys, because another midwestern sports-oriented trip was coming up in less than two weeks. Of course, if I was going to travel, I was going to fish – but there was quite a logistical surprise waiting for me. Stay tuned.

Steve

SPECIAL HOLIDAY NOTE – 

As this one is being published just before Christmas, I wanted to put in a good word for a local organization that does amazing work with foster children – https://www.fosteringwishes.org/. As difficult as families can be on occasion, imagine being without one at the Holidays. Any donations are always greatly appreciated.

Posted by: 1000fish | December 7, 2023

Amazon Part Three – The Southern Cross

DATELINE: JULY 31, 2022 – IKPENG VILLAGE, RIO XINGU, BRAZIL

Every trip I take, no matter how fertile the location, has a segment where I lose all common sense and get target fixated on something I’m probably not going to catch. Welcome to that portion of the trip.

Mau met me right after breakfast and proudly showed me a tennis ball-sized lump of yellow paste. “Corimba!” he announced. He had stayed up half the night making his special paste bait, just for me. I was excited to get a bonus crack at a species that has given me plenty of trouble over the years.

Looking from camp down to the boats.

We drove upriver past the main village, and as we pulled into the shallows, we could see the classic splashes from spooked corimba. I felt confident.

Three hours later, it slowly dawned on me that my confidence was misplaced and foolish. Even where corimba are common, they are really hard to catch. They are an incredibly skittish filter feeder and have great eyesight. I cast doughballs, I cast bread, I cast worms. I got an assortment of catfish and leporinus, but the Corimba would stay just out of reach, constantly reminding us they were there. It was awful. The Corimba is a soul-crushing fish.

Working around the bits of my crushed soul, I did manage another new Leporinus – L. geminis.

                                                          

They always seem to come in pairs. That’s number 18 for the trip for those of you who are still reading.

We went in for lunch around noon, and I enjoyed a package of REI beef stroganoff while the guys gave me a hard time and showed pictures of some truly monstrous payara and wolffish.

I believe this was the biggest wolffish of the trip, gotten by Owen on a light spinning rod. It has to be pushing 30.

The same afternoon, I finally cracked 20. Yes, Jonah, it was on the whopper plopper. Seeing Owen’s fish didn’t take any of the pride out of this, but it certainly gave me some perspective. There is always a bigger fish out there.

For the evening session, we went back up the river to throw more lures. I scaled down to a small minnow plug and got a striped jacunda – a lovely species and certainly a new one. 

This was 19 for the trip and 2098 lifetime.

More local kids playing in the river.

When casting lures exceeded my attention span, I started tossing around a small sabiki. I got plenty of tetras and small spotted leporinus, but one fish stood out. It looked like a small bonefish, but even I know there are no bonefish in the Amazon. It took a few weeks of ID work from Dr. Carvalho, but this one turned out to be Hemiodus parnaguae – locally called “Avoador.”

I was suddenly at 2099 lifetime.

We closed out the evening by setting up in the main river for big catfish, dropping massive cut baits on saltwater-capable conventional setups. As is normal in the region, pirahnas showed up and started picking the baits apart – it is amazing how quickly they can reduce a whole catfish to just a skull. This is part of the game, so we stuck at it, but I couldn’t help putting down a smaller rod to catch a few of these pests. The first six were the standard redeyes, but then I got one that looked completely different – bright silver with blotchy spots. This was a spotted pirahna, a new one, and I had species 2100.

No, I am not going for 3000. Stop it.

We fished well into the evening, enjoying the sunset.

There are a couple of huge catfish species, notably the piraiba, that patrol these waters, so we spent a couple of hours each night trying for them. We had a couple of bites over the week, but no hookups. Sammy and Johnny have both gotten piraiba on other trips.

This is a piraiba. Gratuitous bikini model thrown in for scale.

We all slept well, considering that while the tents seemed bugproof and comfortable, they were not soundproof. There was some Olympic-level snoring, myself included I’m sure, and the diet, especially mine, was bean-heavy. I was actually concerned that we were keeping the jungle animals awake, but between earplugs, noseplugs, and Ambien, it all worked out. 

The next day, the 29th, was a nearly non-stop Corimba hunt. Mau showed me a number of new lagoons, all loaded with them, and we definitely got a few bites. (A very subtle, nibbling sort of thing as they browse through the bottom and pick up anything that seems delicious.) But no Corimba, although Mau continued to radiate confidence that it would happen. There was one catfish species that seemed to have a taste for the paste baits. With a face like a tiny Kraken, this fish is known locally as a Botihno, and it was species 22 of the trip.

And 2101 lifetime.

Aren’t they adorable?

Dinner that night was REI Chili Mac, a personal favorite even though it often has late-night consequences. We stayed late in the dining tent, looking at each other’s pictures and comparing notes. The guys had now all been out to the lagoons at least twice, and were getting big peacocks and wolffish, with some bonus rays and payaras. The conversation went long into the evening, and the outdoor adventures of Johnny, Sam, and Owen never stopped amazing me. We got to the tents around 10, and we had our one indoor wildlife encounter of the trip. A decent-sized lizard – let’s call it a foot long – somehow got into Fabio’s tent. I imagine it was a bit concerning for Fabio, judging from his screams, so he probably could have used some help. But the group abandoned him. We bravely yelled encouragement until he caught the thing in a towel and escorted it outside. 

The 30th was a long, long day. Mau and I headed out early and put in a futile hour for corimba. We then started working our way into a set of increasingly narrow backwaters.

I was looking for snakes in every tree.

Mau had some very specific small fish in mind, and very soon, we were in a stream with full-on claustrophobic overhanging jungle. He frequently had to get out of the boat and drag us over logs or through vegetation, but he seemed to have no concern about snakes, crocodiles, or man-eating fish, so I felt a little better.

The James Brown of the Amazon – “The hardest working man in row business.”

All this led to three new species, numbers 23, 24, and 25 of the trip. These were the redfin leporinus, the redlip taxina, and another Amazon tetra species. I thought I had added a fourth – a beautiful fish that looked a bit like a lost tilapia – but it turned out to be a black acara, a species native here but that I had caught with Martini up in Florida.

The acara. They also come in green.

The leporinus – this genus was very good to me on this trip.

The taxina.

And the tetra – species 2104 lifetime.

Mau runs the boat back to camp.

We came in very late for lunch, and I couldn’t thank Mau enough for taking me to his secret backwater spots. Even Mega, who had fished many seasons here, had no idea that there were so many species lurking just off the beaten path. 

I took a brief nap, my only one of the trip, and then spent the late afternoon and evening with Mau on the main river. We got plenty of solid fish – redtails, corvina, payara, and another big ray.

A solid but not big redtail. These things can reach 100 pounds, which would be quite a tussle.

This payara was the 1000th fish I caught in 2023. Another OCD milestone accomplished!

These teeth photos never get old.

Yes, this ray would have been another world record, because it was bigger than the first one. If I finish one record behind someone in lifetime standings, I’m going to feel pretty stupid.

I also got one of the bizarre shovelnose catfish with the eyes on the bottom of the head. I had gotten this species in Argentina in 2000.

The giant catfish didn’t bite well after dark, but as long as I kept covered in DEET, the bugs weren’t too bad and the evenings were beautiful. We saw plenty of caimans – the local crocodile relative – and even an ocelot that came down to the river for a drink. And once all the light had drained from the sky, I could look up at the Southern Cross. The first time I ever saw it was in August of 1999, while fending off mosquitoes on the Parana River in Northern Argentina, and it always reminds how far I am from home. I’ve seen it dozens of times since, and I always reflect on what brought me down there – it was really in Brazil that I recognized that my species hunt was much more a lifetime purpose than a passing hobby.

I tried and tried to get a photo of the Southern Cross, and I failed. Thank goodness for the internet.

The 31st would be our last day on the water, and I decided to focus on bigger stuff. It had been an excellent trip – I had 25 species under my belt. I decided to bring the lures back out, give Mau the day off, and just enjoy the place. I knew I wouldn’t make it down here too many more times in my life, and I wanted to just soak it in. I got paired with Johnny and Sam and we all caught some solid corvina and payara, sprinkled in with a few smaller catfish and jacunda. 

That’s Sammy’s payara – I’m just holding it for artistic purposes. And yes, they do a hilarious ZZ Top impression. This was one of the best groups I’ve ever fished with.

We headed in for a relaxed lunch, and I treated myself to the last REI chili mac. The rest of the crew enjoyed fresh catfish and vegetables, but I stand by my decision. Culinary coward though I may be, my post-traumatic colon syndrome is always present. Mid-afternoon, we headed back down to the water for our afternoon/evening session. Just as we were boarding the boat, Mau came running, and I mean running, down to the landing. Curiously not out of breath for a 60 year-old who had just sprinted 150 yards, he handed me a small paper bag that contained a softball-sized lump of something wrapped in plastic, and a specially-tied rig. He spoke excitedly in Portuguese to the boat driver, who spoke excitedly in Portuguese to Mega – the only word I understood was “corimba,” which is Portuguese for “Steve can’t catch one.” Mega explained to me that the place we were going, a broad lagoon behind a sand bar, was loaded with corimba, and Mau wanted me to try his special bait and rig.

It was about 45 minutes downriver to our spot, and the moment we got there, I could see what Mau was talking about. It was a fairly small area, and the bar was shallow enough where the fish weren’t to risk swimming out over it. There were corimba EVERYWHERE. These are a spooky fish, and every time we moved the boat or a bird flew over, they made their typical massed splashing getaways. So we spent a while fishing big baits, and got an assortment of sorubim and redtail catfish. We then started tossing lures again, and in between the occasional peacock and wolffish, we could see giant schools of corimba.

Very kindly, Johnny and Sammy told me to give it a go, even though that meant they couldn’t fish for a while. It took me about 30 minutes to master casting gently enough to not spook the school, but as my learning curved upward, giant schools of corimba started cruising right by the boat. I got my first few bites – subtle nibbles that disappeared a split-second before I could set. So I drank a couple of Red Bulls to make sure I was really, really keyed up, and cast again. As the rig drifted slowly out of sight, I saw the line jump ever-so-slightly, and, in my highly-caffeinated condition, I snapped back hard and got a fish on. Both boatmen were yelling “Corimba! Corimba!” – which is Portuguese for “No pressure, Steve. You have one chance. Don’t screw it up.”

The whole thing took less than 90 seconds, but it seemed like an hour. I backed off the drag and played the fish very carefully, but it was several pounds and didn’t want to join me, so it made a series of strong runs before we got it close. I could see it just feet under boat; I could almost touch it – and my imagination ran wild with hook-pulling scenarios right until we netted it and it thumped into the bottom of the boat. I had done it – I had defeated one of the most irksome fish in all my years of experience, and I was ecstatic. 

This was 26 for the trip, and 2105 lifetime. I was done, and for at least an evening, I was satisfied.

Note that the mouth is set up for nibbling through mud and algae. It’s like a mullet, but worse.

We gave the big catfish one more try, which didn’t work out, but the evening was beautiful and dinner was a celebration.

Steve and Mega at dinner, right before Mega did something that I will never unsee.

We had all gotten something spectacular over the week, and we had all truly experienced the adventure of a lifetime. I reflected quietly how fortunate I am to have been here more than once.

And then it got weird. Deep in my soul, I knew a week in the Amazon wasn’t going to pass without something getting weird, but this was still a surprise. 

The local tribes in this region have a tradition of decorating their skin with ritual scars. These scars are made by inflicting deep scratches on the skin with a device made with payara teeth.

The device.

I could have very easily left it at that and never thought about it for the rest of my life, but that evening, Mega decided that he wanted to have some of these scars applied to his back. It was one of the most disturbing sounds I have ever heard in my life, like a stiff wire brush scrubbing over a side of beef.

He swears it didn’t hurt that much. I don’t believe him. I am still in pain every time I see this photo.

We had a long day of travel the next day. Up early for breakfast, we said goodbye to the villagers that had made our trip such a success.

The team at the camp.

Saying goodbye to Mau – his efforts turned the trip from great to spectacular. I left him with my beloved Yo-zuri hat.

We took the small planes back to Sinop, then domestic flights to Brasilia where we parted ways. Fabio headed to Rio, and the New Mexico gang headed for a long overnighter that would get them home 26 hours later. I headed back to Sao Paulo for a few days of steak and caipirinhas before I went home.

Air Zaremba lands to pick us up.

My welcome back to civilization.

The view outside my room in Sao Paulo. My first trip here was in 1998, but I have no idea when my next one will be. I stayed up well into the early hours just looking out the window. It was too overcast to see the Southern Cross, but I knew it was there.

I flew home a few days later, wondering when I would get back to the Amazon, and wondering much more how 20 years had gone by so quickly. 

Steve

 

SPECIAL ANNOUNCEMENT – THE BOOK WE ALL NEED

Several of you have still not ordered Dr. Carvalho’s outstanding new book. Get it now before the movie comes out!

 

Posted by: 1000fish | November 15, 2023

Amazon Part Two – The Magic of Mau

DATELINE: JULY 27, 2022 – IKPENG VILLAGE, RIO XINGU, BRAZIL

No one sleeps well the night before a big trip starts, and we were all up early and into the dining tent for breakfast. No savage wildlife had attempted to enter my sleeping quarters, and for this, I was grateful. Not to give out a spoiler here, but nothing uninvited entered my tent the whole week, except for smells, and even the showers had only the occasional small spider. (On the 2001 trip, a bird spider invaded our lodge bedroom. It was the size of a kitten and twice as hairy.)

We discussed plans for the day as I consumed my REI oatmeal. (To the great curiosity of the staff and the light-hearted mockery of the New Mexico crew, who chided me about my delicate constitution.) In truth, the camp cooking was delightful – I’m just a wuss. The guys enjoyed hearty pork chops, plenty of fresh fish, and all kinds of other side dishes. I did supplement my own food with their beans and rice, which is always a safe choice with enough hot sauce.)

The desserts also looked appealing. Jello and fruit cocktail is universal.

There were plenty of fishing spots on the main river, and also a few hike-in lagoons where they had pre-placed boats. The lagoons were supposed to be hotspots for peacock bass and – please hear me out – electric eels. In talking to Ian-Arthur online, he had mentioned that these eels were common in the region and are an open IGFA world record. I pictured them as 3-4 feet long, and I imagined a scenario where I could drag one on to a sand bar with a heavy rod, get it to a scale using a lot of towels, and, with a great deal of help from the camp guys, get it weighed and released.

That first day, Fabio and I were paired up.

That’s Steve, Fabio, and Mega, in the dining tent.

Sammy and Johnny head out on their boat.

We drove down the main river with one of the local guides, keen to get some lures in the water.

Roaring down the Xingu.

We anchored above a structure-filled pool, and cast away. Fabio got a few jacundas and small peacocks, while I got nothing. My attention span being what it is, I quickly decided to put some bait in the water. Moments later, I got my first solid fish of the trip – a nice tiger sorobim. Sadly, this is one of the two members of this genus I already had, but it pulled hard and I was thrilled. 

Not a bad start.                         

After a couple of hours, we motored back to camp, and while the rest of the guys enjoyed what I’m sure was some delightful local cooking, I raced through an REI beef stew and got down to fish at the landing. There was one new critter to report – a pacu known locally as a tinga.

Eight for the trip.

That afternoon, they introduced me to one of the villagers, a man named Mau. Mega explained that Mau, a lifelong local fisherman, knew where a lot of the local odd species were, and that Mau would be my personal guide for a few days. We ventured out together right after lunch, and made a short run to the other side of the river, where he tied us off to a tree so we could cast out into the current. I tried a few lures, but Mau pushed me to use live bait – some small eels that they had apparently gone to a great deal of trouble to obtain.

That’s Mau – constantly optimistic, always cheerful, and an excellent angler.

On my PR844 3C, I tossed the bait out into the current. Seconds later, something took off with it. I let it run a moment, then locked into a big fish. It pulled drag for a moment, then jumped – I could see it was long and silvery, but it dove again before I could get a better look. Minutes later, Mau put the Boga on a knifefish, a toothy speedster that I had caught smaller versions of in Argentina years ago.

It was a thrilling photo upgrade.

Casting again, I got another quick run and hooked up a heavy fish than dug hard for the bottom. Mau said “Corvina!” I had forgotten that there is indeed a croaker species that lives in the Amazon, and I was hoping frantically that’s what I had on the line. It was. 

Species #9 of the trip.

We stayed out another hour or two, getting more corvinas and a couple of payaras – variously known as a cachorra or Brazilian tigerfish. I had caught these in 2003, but there is no thrill like seeing a set of teeth like that come out of the water.

My big payara for the trip – caught on a diving plug I bought in London.

Do NOT put this in your pants.

I also added a micro to the species list – the blacktail hatchet characin.

These were hanging out on the surface near the boat – the kingfishers were swooping down and eating them now and then. I was up to 10 species on the trip.

There was a stunning variety of avian life in the area, but kingfishers are my favorite. Blazing-fast flashes of brilliant color, they would stop on nearby branches and watch for baitfish.

I tried and tried to get a photo of one, but all I got was stuff like this.

Luckily, I ran it through AI and got results like the two below.

These do look like the species we saw.

Or they’re random internet photos. You be the judge.

We decided to spend the evening chasing wolffish – trihera – on surface lures. I have accumulated a giant assortment of topwater plugs over the years, but Jonah at Hi’s Tackle Box insisted that I buy one new lure for the trip – a white “Whopper Plopper.” The lure bite was off that night, but we didn’t bring bait, because we were lure fishing, dammit. A couple hours in, I thought of Jonah and tied on the plopper. You can guess what happened.

This is why you ALWAYS take Jonah’s advice.

Another thing you should NEVER put in your pants.

This was the same species of wolffish I had caught on my 2001 trip – the one where the amoebas did the macarena through my intestinal tract for three days. But, as it turns out, the trihera from 2003 were a different species – the blackspot –  and so I racked up another one, even though it was actually caught on December 7, 2003. It always pays to look over old fish now and then. Thank you again, Dr. Carvalho.

The fish from 2003. I was up to 11 for the trip, even if it took me 19 years to figure it out. Oh, I long for those days when I could tuck in my shirt.

Motoring home at sunset.

The next morning, Fabio, Owen, and I spent the day in one of the lagoons. The main target would be peacock bass on lures, but there would also be some wolffish, some assorted micro species, and a good chance at an electric eel. We ran the boat a few miles downriver, then parked and unloaded our gear. Mau pulled a wheelbarrow out of the bushes and piled it with about 100 pounds of trolling batteries, oars, and other supplies. He then set off at a light trot through the jungle. It turns out he is right about my age, and there’s no way I could move that load at his speed.

Even with our lighter loads, we were hard put to keep up with this amazing ball of energy.

Interestingly, none of us would set foot in the water, even puddles, because we were all terrified of candiru. I am not going to describe this horrifying if possibly mythical fish here, but please do Google it, although not while naked. 

Jaguar claw marks. Translated from the jaguar alphabet, this inscription means “I wouldn’t fish here at night if I were you.

We got to the lagoon and piled into a small metal boat. Casting lures, we got an assortment of small striped peacock bass – another new species – and smaller wolffish.

The striped peacock – 12 for the trip and 2092 lifetime. We had numerous doubles on fish this size, and note that something took quite a bite out of mine at some stage in the past.

Wolffish were also there in Numbers. Fabio’s fish is over 10 pounds – my personal best was around four.

We decided to throw some live bait for bigger wolffish. As I was rigging up, I had one of those rare moments in life where I was terrified and humbled at the same time. I saw what I thought was a tree stump – roughly a foot in diameter – rise almost to the surface and then sink back down. I pointed it out to Mau – I figured it must have been some loose wood. “Electrico.” he said plainly.

I nearly wet myself. It was an electric eel. It was as big around as my leg, and all of eight feet long, which would make it an easy 60 pounds of solid muscle. That, and the prospect of 700 volts, immediately put any thought of catching the creature out of my mind permanently. So perhaps, at age 59, I was maturing enough where I wasn’t going to risk my life, and the lives of others, for a single world record. 

The guys started tossing live bait after the trihera, and they caught some BEASTS. The bidding started at 10 pounds, and quickly went to 15 and then close to 20. I kept throwing lures and got a few nice ones as well.

I upped my personal best to eight pounds. Yes, Jonah. It was on the Whopper Plopper.

This one was just under 10.

Owen was having the time of his life battling these monsters on a light spinning rod, and Fabio was getting some good fish with his lures. In the meantime, I pulled out a light rod, a float, a #12 hook, and some earthworm. Casting to the brushy banks, I ran up four quick and lovely species.

The southern pike-characin.

Gotta love the teeth on these.

The blackspot earth-eater. Close relative to a fish I wasted hours on and never caught in Singapore.

The silver matrincha.

And finally, the pinktail chalceus.

I was now at 16 for the trip and 2096 overall.

Some of the wildlife was stunningly beautiful.

The photo doesn’t show how blue this thing was. It was the bluest thing I’ve ever seen.

I now fully believed 2100 species was going to happen. Mau grilled fresh peacock bass for everyone while I quietly ate my REI chicken gumbo, and as soon as we got back to the fishing, I decided to try for a couple of trophies. I rigged up the LR 844 with a big, live bait, and then one of my heavier spinning rods with a slab of cut fish. The live bait went first, and whatever ate it had no interest in meeting me. It peeled a lot of line off that heavy reel, but I stayed with it and steered it to open water. After about 15 minutes of back and forth, it surfaced. It was a wolffish, between 15 and 20, by far my personal best. I was ecstatic.

Mind you, this is about half the size of some of the Arotegui world records.

Just as I was taking photos, the line on the other rig started easing off the open bail. I let it run for around a minute, closed the bail, reeled down, and set. It stopped me dead, and I was worried for a moment I had gotten an eel. But then whatever it was took off, in a fast, pumping run for the trees. With only 30# braid, I leaned as hard as I could, and the fish finally turned back into open water. Then it just stopped. I could feel it there, but it was content to bury in the bottom and kick up huge clouds of mud. It was a freshwater stingray, a fish I had dreamed of catching for years, and all I had to do was not screw it up. Ten minutes later, they landed it. I had my ray, lifetime 2097 and a memorable trophy.

It also turns out that this species – the bigtooth river stingray – was an open world record, but because I had my ID wrong, I didn’t take measurements. Oops.

One of the rarest doubles I will ever have in a boat.

The rest of the day was a blur of solid peacock bass and occasional bicuda and pirahna on lures. They were picky – only the really nice Yo-zuris and Rapalas would do, so most of the plugs that came 7000 miles with me never got wet, but it was a blast of an afternoon. 

My first decent striped peacock.

Another one – same species. Their color patterns are highly variable.

A bicuda – they get bigger, and they are aggressive predators.

And of course, plenty of piranhas. They seem to love destroying expensive wooden lures.

Unknown to me at the time, my lure fishing for the trip was mostly done, all because of a single word that passed between myself and Mau.

Steve and Mau celebrate the end of a successful day.

Sunset over the Xingu.

I was asking him about varying kinds of fish we might see in the river. I would say “Jacunda?” and he would nod yes. I would say “Piaba” and he would shake his head no. And then, just for the hell of it, I mentioned an old enemy. “Corimba?” I asked. “Si, si.” said Mau. Incredulously, I repeated “Corimba – the rare creature I’ve been trying to catch for years?” Smiling, Mau said “Si, si. Muitos muitos corimbas aqui!” Most of you can guess how I spent the next two days.

Steve

 

SPECIAL ANNOUNCEMENT – THE BOOK WE ALL NEED

Several of you have still not ordered Dr. Carvalho’s outstanding new book. Get it now – the ending will stun even the most experienced readers.

 

Posted by: 1000fish | October 15, 2023

Amazon Part One – The LR-844 3C

DATELINE: JULY 25, 2022 – IKPENG VILLAGE, RIO XINGU, BRAZIL

My first trip to the Amazon was more than 20 years ago. I was going to Brazil frequently for business, and it was easy enough to tack on some fishing when I was already down there. It all started with a 2001 adventure with Ian-Arthur Sulocki where I got eight new species … and amoebic dysentery.

My first Payara, July 23, 2001. Note the teeth.

Then there was a 2003 Hi’s Tackle expedition where I caught 14 new species, including my first big peacock bass on a surface lure.

December 7, 2003. I never could quite break the 20 pound mark, which haunts me to this day.

That trip had no amoebic dysentery, but it did have a travel glitch that nearly stranded me in Brazil for Christmas. Former co-worker Chris, armed with only my credit card and frequent flyer numbers, somehow got me home.

That’s Chris, logistical genius and all-around good guy. He’s holding a smallmouth he caught in New Hampshire on a day off during a Boston business trip – which somehow got ME in trouble with his wife.

By 2001, I had managed to obtain quite an assortment of travel gear – taking one-piece rods onto a small plane is impractical and risky. Some of these travel rods – like the classic Loomis HSR-90 3S – still come on most trips with me. It’s a solid eight-pound class spinning stick that can catch a wide variety of fish. But I also owned some more specialized stuff, and one that stands out is a meat stick of a casting rod, the LR-844 3C.

Matched with a heavy bass reel and 65# braid, this rod can wrestle even the most reluctant predator out of heavy cover – an important quality in the Amazon. I remember putting it away after that 2003 trip and thinking how often I was going to use it, because I felt like I would go to the Amazon every year or two.

Fast forward 19 years. I did a lot of fishing and went a lot of places, but I somehow never did make it back to the Amazon. I had kept myself busy – my species count was at 175 the first time I showed up in the Brazilian jungle, and as I prepared for this trip, it sat at 2079. This adventure was originally supposed to happen in 2020, with my nephew Charlie, but Covid and my sister’s mixing up yellow fever and the Macarena put the kibosh on that. I knew I was still going, and 2022 seemed like the right time. Late July was good timing, as I worked for a European company and they all go on vacation then, although I knew at least one sociopathic salesperson would invent an emergency the minute they figured out I was away from cell service.

While packing for the trip, I threw in a couple of spinning rods, a medium casting setup, and a heavy saltwater-type rod for big catfish and freshwater stingrays. (A freshwater stingray is one of my dream fish.)

I brought two boxes of lures with me. These had been packed for the better part of two decades.

That red and white Y0-Zuri, top center, has over 100 fish, 15 species, and 14 countries to its credit.

I was sorting through reels when I came across a Curado 300 loaded with heavy braid. Hmmmmm, I thought to myself. It might be nice to have a heavy casting setup in case we find some big wolffish or some other surprise. So I went through the Loomis tubes in the back room of the garage, and there was that LR-844 3C. Inside the tube, faded but still readable, was the business card of the concierge of the Copacabana Palace Hotel in Rio de Janeiro, where I spent a few days after the 2003 trip. It had not been opened since then. It occurred to me that I might have more poles than I really needed, but I quickly dismissed this as nonsense. Even if I used it every 20 years, it was still the perfect tool, and I was glad I had it.

An old friend I hadn’t seen in years.

As far as the Amazon goes, this trip would be relatively civilized – I have known the outfitter, Alan Zaremba of Worldwide Sportfishing, for many years, and he runs a top notch operation. (The Arosteguis trust him with all their Central and South America trips.)

That’s Alan on the right.

We would be staying in an Indian village, sleeping in permanent tents that were sheltered inside a large, sturdy hut. I packed a large supply of REI camping food and Red Bull, and enough gear to stock a reasonable tackle store. This location was known for a lot of different species, and I felt ready for anything.

Most anglers fly to the staging city in one long overnighter. I am too old for that kind of 5-stop chaos, so I headed to Sao Paulo a few days in advance to relax before I headed inland. Of course, I still squeezed in a day of fishing, pursuing the dreaded Corimba. Despite the heroic efforts of Emerson and his staff, I failed yet again.

Hanging with some of the guys at Santa Clara Lake.

I did catch the biggest tilapia I have ever seen.

On the plus side, there was a lot of steak, visiting with old friends, and shopping for Marta gifts – one of her favorite clothing stores in the universe is next to my hotel in Sao Paulo.

One of my favorite sights anywhere – a large plate of beef and a caipirinha.

Then the big day came. I had to take two domestic flights, ending up in the small provincial town of Sinop. Things went flawlessly. I flew through Brasilia, and by coincidence, the other anglers on the trip also connected through there, so we all got to meet and take the connecting flight into Sinop together. 

There is no more beautiful sight than all your luggage arriving at your final destination.

There were four other anglers on this trip. This is a luck-of-the-draw kind of thing – you always hope for good guys, but there could always be a “Louis” in the mix. (No, I still don’t feel bad about what I did with the salad dressing.) I lucked out on this one. Three of the four guys were buddies from New Mexico, brothers Sammy and Johnny, and their childhood friend Owen. We were also joined by a young, enthusiastic Brazilian angler named Fabio. The New Mexico group, although completely exhausted from 24 hours of flying and having the airline lose some of their equipment, was still thrilled to be there. And Fabio, a lure specialist, was irrepressibly happy about everything. 

Sinop is a tiny place, but Alan had arranged a nice hotel, and we were on our own for the evening. Of course, I immediately looked for some water, but the only ponds were miles away, so we found ourselves a nice grill where we could eat and get to know each other. The New Mexico contingent had been friends since grade school. They were all retired, and from the stories that started coming out, they have done a ton of travel fishing – a ton. They’ve hit a bunch of the South American destinations together – the Amazon system, all over the northern part of the continent, all over North America, and some other stops in Asia. They are gamefish guys, so they don’t devote the insane hours I do to every little fish that might be there, so they have an incredible photo album of trophy fish, including plenty I don’t have. This was Fabio’s first big travel trip, and he was focused on lure fishing, mostly for peacocks and wolffish. 

The gang in Sinop. From Left to right, Fabio, Owen, Johnny, me, and Sammy.

The Fish Gods are fickle, and they chose to mess with the New Mexico guys first. Their fishing rods ended up stuck somewhere in Florida. I would have gone absolutely apoplectic and taken luggage agents hostage, but these guys took everything in stride. (A skill I should think about developing.) Alan borrowed some rods from the outgoing group and rounded up a few of his own, and everybody had equipment for the week.

We got up early on Monday the 25th, took a van back over to the airport, and boarded two twin-engine private aircraft.

The Air Zaremba fleet.

It was a short flight, about 200 miles. We picked up the river and headed north, and while there was some amazing beauty, there were also a lot of slashed and burned open areas. This isn’t going to work long-term.

Lining up the runway.

We landed on an excellent dirt strip, got our bags together, and with plenty of help from the staff, made our way to the boats. Camp was just 15 minutes downriver, and they somehow kept me from trolling on the way.

The staff was extremely helpful, and in what seemed like just a few minutes, we were in our main tent and putting gear together. We met Mega, who would be the main guide for the week – we would rotate boats with him, some of the other professional guides, and the Indian villagers, who also knew the river very well.

Mega – Amazon guide extraordinaire.

Monday was supposed to be a day off for folks to get gear organized, plan strategy, and relax. Johnny, Sam, and Owen were content to relax, eat lunch, and get their tents set up. 

There is no way I was going to relax 200 feet from a major tributary of the Amazon. 

Mega had obtained some assorted small fish baits for me – worms, bread, dough, etc. I got one worm from him – these were the size of garter snakes – and got down to the river around 11am.

This was one of the smaller worms.

The first half an hour was maddening – there were at least three species of fish visible in the shallows around some downed wood, and none of them had any interest whatsoever in my micro-offerings. Leaving a bigger bait soaking in the river also wouldn’t work, as the bottom was solid, snaggy rock. I had a week ahead of me, so no need for panic. Or was there? The small stuff was visibly spooking every time I dropped anything in the water. I took a deep breath and decided to change strategies. The boats were all parked in the shade, and I reasoned that if I walked out on one of those, I would get over a little deeper, shaded water, and that might give me a better chance. 

I set up comfortably on a boat seat, prepared some small and medium rigs, and set to it again. Bam – a quick bite and a wonderful species – the disk tetra. All the travel was suddenly worth it.

 

I had pictured catching some small, beautiful stuff, and this was a fantastic way to start.

On my very next cast, I got another new species – the spotted Leporinus. I was two for two.

These are the same genus as the Bogas found throughout South America. Pound for pound, they are one of the hardest-fighting fish in freshwater.

Fabio came down to cast a few lures around the boat landing. He caught a spotted jacunda – the first and only one of these I have ever seen.

Nice work. This motivated me to stop bait fishing for half an hour and cast lures. Alas, there were no bites, so I was back to the small stuff.

The local kids play in the river behind my fishing spot.

I got a few more spotted Leporinus, and then I caught a gorgeous fish with black and yellow vertical bars.

This one turned out to be a Flamengo Leporinus, species three of the afternoon.

A couple of quick notes – first off, a huge 1000Fish thank you to Dr. Alfredo Carvalho of the University of Sao Paulo for his tireless work on the IDs from this trip. Some of these species were obscure and/or recently identified, so I have the confirmed Latin name and did my best on common names.

While I worked a sabiki, I started drifting a little larger bait just off the bottom, and I was rewarded with a catfish, specifically Bloch’s catfish, which was the fourth new one of the afternoon.

I was starting to feel pretty good about things.

Of course, there were a few pirahna mixed into the catch. I expected plenty of these, and with much of the family already on my species list, I didn’t anticipate anything new.

This is a redeye pirahna, one of the more widespread species. Not only are the teeth razor-sharp, but the fish has a powerful jaw, so even a quick nip can take out a sizeable chunk of flesh.

As it got late in the afternoon, I got yet another leporinus – the threespotted.

It’s called that because it has three spots.

I closed out the day with two tetras – the radapura and the yellowtail.

The radapura tetra. I caught a lot of these over the week.

The Amazon yellowtail tetra – species seven of the day and 2086 lifetime. 2100 now seemed very doable.

I couldn’t have been more thrilled – and I had seven more full days of fishing ahead of me. I even caught a couple of bigger fish, like a redtail cat. I considered a night session, but the insects quickly put that idea to rest. I had left all the chemicals up in my tent.

A small redtail – quite a surprise on a trout rod.

The area is delightfully bug-free during the day, but at a certain time of evening, they appear in numbers, and they are incredibly organized.

Later that night, I discovered that not only did the camp have reliable electric power, it also had wifi. I would not have to go a week without baseball scores! But that also meant I could see email – if I wanted to. Part of my job was approving contract language on large deals, but everyone had been warned I would be out of the office for a week and that they would either have to get their requests in before I left or they would have to wait a few days. It is not without some delight I mention that I got to watch one young, rather entitled sales rep ignore this process and go through a range of escalating emotions on each succeeding evening. I must confess I got a giggle out of not reading them every night. I took care of it on my first official day back to work, we got the deal, and no one died.

It had been a good opening day. Seven species, some cool-looking stuff, and plenty of opportunity for the week ahead. I had two particular goals for this trip – to reach 2100 species, which would take only 14 more now, and to catch at least 462 total fish on the trip, so that I would be at 1000 fish (of any kind) during the year. The first time I caught 1000 fish in a year was 2002, and the milestone fish was a piranha in Uruguay. I have caught at least 1000 total fish every year since then, and the milestone catches have been in places as varied as England, Belize, and Australia, but never in Brazil before. (We have already discussed my OCD.)

I slept surprisingly well that night, considering that I’m not big on camping. The tents were equipped with sturdy cots, and I brought modern amenities like LED light strings, portable batteries, and Ambien. It felt almost like home, except that I could wander outside my tent, look at the stars, and see the Southern Cross. (One of the greatest songs of all time, about a man sailing the South Seas to run from a doomed relationship.

I saw it the first time in 1999. Despite the claims in the song, I didn’t immediately understand why I came that way, but I too was in a doomed relationship at the time. I should have just skipped the call from Avalon and sailed to the Marquesas – I’d probably have gotten a spearfish. (Random web photo, by the way.)

In the morning, I would chase my first big fish in the Amazon in 19 years, and to paraphrase Stephen Stills, there is nothing as big as the promise of a coming day.

Steve

 

SPECIAL ANNOUNCEMENT – THE BOOK WE ALL NEED

Dr. Alfredo Carvalho has come out with a wonderful new book on Brazilian Coastal fishes. This is a must-read for anyone who might ever fish down there, and if you read it, you’re going to want to fish down there.

 

 

Posted by: 1000fish | September 15, 2023

The Last of the Surfperch

DATELINE: JUNE 16, 2022 – PACIFICA, CALIFORNIA

Surfperch are a marvelous but undermarketed group of west-coast fish. They range in size from tiny to pushing four pounds, and they have a wide following – surf specialists, fly anglers, pier fishermen, and of course, kids. (Small surfperch are often that magical “first catch.”)

There are 19 surfperch species in North America. Largely found in protected bays and surgy nearshore areas from Alaska to Mexico, the family is known for giving birth to live young. (No, Cousin Chuck, this does not make them mammals. They do not have fur or antlers.)

My journey with them started in the 1970s, when one of my father’s friends, Keiji, took us surf fishing off Point Reyes, and, with help from Keiji’s dad, I reeled in what I believe was a barred perch. Alas, there were no photos from that day, which is fine, because I was a goofy-looking kid.

(Sidebar: The story has been told previously, but it bears repeating. Keiji was Japanese, and since I was fascinated by war history, Keiji and my dad spent months trying to convince me that Keiji’s father was a kamikaze pilot who sank a US aircraft carrier but somehow survived his mission. I was young and still trusted adults, so I bought the whole thing. I met the old man several times, and I was dying to ask him about it, but they kept the lid on the story by telling me he didn’t speak any English. It finally all unraveled one day when my father and Keiji both fell asleep on the beach, and I took my chance to approach the old man. He spoke perfect English and gave me a piece of ancient wisdom I treasure to this very day – “Don’t let those two clowns screw with you.”)

In 1984, an unphotographed rubberlip surfperch was my very first catch in San Francisco Bay. My sister was the only witness, and alas, asking her to remember what a fish looked like would be akin to asking me to change a diaper. 

My sister, Laura.

It was a simpler, less obsessive time in my fishing career – it would be about 15 years until I developed the species-hunting mania, and a full 28 until I caught another rubberlip. (At least I did it in a big way – my first one was also a world record.) In the meantime, I started catching a few more of the group. Early in this process, I looked in an ID book, counted up the species, and decided that I wanted to catch them all. “Collecting them all” is one of my primordial urges that predates the fishing obsession. I still remember trying to get all the Solido WWII tanks as a child and never being able to find an M-10, which bothers me to this very day. (Marta blames this on American consumerism, but I’ll rest on my OCD for this whole theme.)

As I looked up all the photos for this post, it struck me how many great friends had been along for these trips. Long-time fishing brothers like Spellman and Martini had been there for a lot of them, and great friends that came along later in the hunt, like Ben Cantrell and Chris Moore, were a big part of this quest. The perch are a good cross-section of my California fishing, and the whole project reminded me that the friends I have made on this journey are the most important part of the whole thing. Except for the nearly-sacred pink surfperch, which outranks at least Spellman.

My first photographed surfperch catch was in June of 2004. It was a pile perch, a larger species that would later account for five of my 16 world records on the overall group. It was an incidental pickup while I was shark fishing in Tomales Bay with good friend Chris Armstrong, the same guy who hosted me the day I caught the record white croaker.

That’s Chris on the left. He’s on the water several times a week and knows more about salmon than most charter captains.

This is the pile perch I caught on his boat. Three things struck me about this picture. First, I can’t believe that hat is 20 years old. Second, the background is Hog Island, a beloved landmark in one of my favorite fishing spots on earth, Tomales Bay. And finally, that fish would have easily been a world record at the time. How innocent I was.

After I had set a record or two on this species, Mark Spellman stepped in for a moment of glory in May of 2011 and nailed a pound-and-a-half fish that gave him his first of his four IGFA world records.

In the background, you can see young Connor Spellman racing to get a closer look at the fish. He’s now a college sophomore.

Being the jerk that I am, I eventually reclaimed the record, and it currently sits at 2.5#. Mark helped me land that fish – he’s a world-class angling teammate.

This one remains the world record as of press time.                       

The next catch was an easy, indeed, unavoidable one – the shiner, on July 11, 2004. These small beasts can be found swarming around pilings and bottom structure anywhere from San Diego to Alaska.

Speaking of small beasts, this fish was caught exactly two days before my first date with Marta.

When I get worked up about fish that small, I always think of this cartoon.

The striped perch was the next one, oddly enough on a rock cod jig, off Half Moon Bay on October 7, 2004.

Although I live and die by the Tigers, we were all Red Sox fans that fall. This fish also would have been a world record at the time – but I would not get my first record for almost another year.

I did eventually get a record on this species, while fishing with my niece and nephew on March 22, 2016.

I closed out 2004 with my fourth documented surfperch – the walleye – on December 19 off Muni Pier in front of Ghirardelli Square in San Francisco. This is a place laden with childhood memories – it still has one of the best ice cream sundaes in the world, and I consider myself an expert in ice cream. 

The 80s called. They want their sunglasses back.

2005 also was a good year. On April 9, also in front of Ghirardelli, I got the “piano key special” – a white and black surfperch on the same day. April 9 is an especially inauspicious date in my family history – my Grandfather Wozniak was killed in WWII on April 9, 1945, and I got married to my eventual ex on April 9, 1994.

My first white surfperch. The little girl is Emily Perry, my buddy Scott’s daughter – who has already graduated college with honors. This makes me feel old. What ever happened to that kid who could watch “Perry the Platypus” for hours on end?

My first black surfperch, caught minutes afterward.

Later in life, I would hold the record on the black for several years, until Daniel Gross tastelessly shattered it right in front of me.

My last record black perch, beautifully photographed by Spellman.

Daniel’s record. Dude, this looks like a mugshot.

I closed out 2005 with my seventh surfperch species, the barred – the one I likely caught in the 70s. This was off Stinson Beach on December 10, which is the day after I left Macromedia, my favorite job so far.

A much younger Steve and his first fish caught right in the surf.

I got some nicer barred perch as the years passed – this one down toward Monterey.

September 10, 2006 was my only surfperch addition that year, but it was a rare and miraculous one – the pink. Whereas most of the family either lives in the surf or in bay structure, this species is distributed randomly in featureless, relatively deep coastal water. On a charter out of Santa Barbara, while we were drifting for halibut, I passed the time dropping a sabiki, and lo and behold, I pulled up a small, beautiful miracle.

It was years before I realized how special this creature was – even though I had to target a number of other species very specifically, this is the one that almost nobody has caught.

It would be four more years before I added another one. On March 6, 2010, I landed a rainbow surfperch off Fort Point in San Francisco – the same place I had gotten that unphotographed rubberlip.

This is one of the more beautiful members of the family. This would also be the last surfperch I caught before I began the 1000Fish blog.

On December 11, 2010, my very first day on Elephant Rock, a spot that would lead to so many species and records, I landed my tenth – the aptly-named dwarf surfperch.

They’re small, and they seem to hang out in a few very specific areas.

A few weeks later, on January 22, 2011, I finally landed my first documented rubberlip.

The very first one. I still pull out this picture late at night and giggle.

This was the first of seven world records I would set on this species, ranging from one pound even to the current 2.75# record. 

This record is my proudest surfperch accomplishment. 2.75#, on a light rod and a small plastic lure.

Sunset at Tiburon, which means it’s time for Waypoint Pizza. 

2013 saw three more additions – the reef surfperch on March 30 with Martini and Spellman, a Tule perch on June 8 with Spellman, and a world record redtail on August 3, with Martini.

The reef surfperch, on the legal side of Lover’s Point.

The Tule is a sneaky one, as it’s the only member of the family that lives in fresh water. We got this one in the Russian River.

This redtail took me to 13. It was a long drive, but well worth it.

Seven long years and one pandemic would pass before I tacked on a few more. On June 12, 2020, I went all the way to Brookings, Oregon to catch a calico. (Thank you again, Luke Ovgard.)

I went full unabomber beard during Covid.

Of course, as soon as I finished the 14-hour round trip pilgrimage for the calico, I began catching them regularly within an hour of my house. Go figure. 

On October 19, 2020, while fishing in San Diego with Ben Cantrell and ace guide Captain James Nelson, I tacked on number 15, the sharpnose surfperch. 

That’s an astonished Ben in the background.

By the time I caught this species, I was keenly aware that I had a good shot at getting all of them. The three remaining – the silver, the kelp, and the spotfin – had all been caught in Northern California, and it was really a question of gathering local intelligence and putting in the time and effort. I would like to again thank local species genius Vince (@prickly_sculpin) whose advice was instrumental in getting all three of them.

The silver was first, at Scott’s Beach on April 17, 2021. I was accompanied by an old 1000fish fan favorite, Jibril Rouag. His mother is one of my best friends, and she appreciates any time I can get the boy out of her house.

My favorite photo of Jibril.

My other favorite photo of Jibril. That’s Daniel Gross on the right, a long-time buddy and charter captain.

Nori the tuna dog even made one of the perch trips, although she decided to nap and had to be carried back.

The kelp perch was much more difficult, and it took several miserable failures before I finally got one on October 30, 2021, up in Bodega Bay.

This was a stunning, last-minute-of-the-day development, and I was thrilled. I have to thank Tania Mantua for showing me this place in the early 1980s and Vince (@prickly_sculpin) for telling me the kelp perch were here.

This left me with the spotfin, which I was assured was not hard to catch and lived near me. And yet somehow I had been fishing the California coast steadily for 30 years without so much as seeing one. Spring of 2022 was a busy time, as we slowly came out of the shadow of Covid and started going places without masks. Apart from a lengthy trip to the Southeast, covered in ‘Fishing With Sigmund” and “She Blinded Me With Science“, I also managed to get to Las Vegas for a Doobie Brothers concert with my buddy Scott.

What happens in Vegas stays in Vegas.

I also got the privilege of fishing with fishing with another 1000 species angler – the third person and first Canadian to ever accomplish the feat – George Brinkman.

Steve and George at Tiburon. George is the third member of the 1000 Fish club I have fished with. (There are now seven total.)  Although he looks younger than me, George is pushing 80 and still relentlessly out there, hunting down the next species – and he shows no signs of slowing down. I admire the man. 

And so, all of this pointless history leads us up to June 16, 2022. I was fishing with the Moore family, who were visiting California to tack on a few species to their impressive life lists.

The Moore Family, minus Carson, who is off on a religious mission. This gives The Mucus an unfair advantage – for now. I am hoping his mission is in the Central Sahara.

Say what you will, but the kid is a snappy dresser.

The day before, we had made a long and slippery walk out on the Half Moon Bay jetty trying for a few species, and although I avoided any broken bones, there were no fish to be found.

These are still gorgeous tidepools.

On the 16th, we headed up to Pacifica Pier, a spot I had not fished since a series of fruitless salmon attempts in 1985. My memories of the place were not fond, but we actually found parking and walked about halfway out onto the pier. It was a swelly but fishable day, and I began rigging a sabiki, preparing myself for disappointment. Chris, who is generally set up before I am, caught three spotfin before I could get a bait in the water. The Mucus caught one. I quietly said bad words to myself, as this was an obvious attempt to upset me. I cast the rig. I had a series of small taps, and when I was sure I had something on the line, I reeled up.

I had a redtail – a species I had driven 800 miles to catch in 2013 – and a creature neither Chris nor The Mucus have gotten. The Fish Gods have quite a sense of humor. 

I cast again and got immediate bites. I reeled up. I did not have a spotfin surfperch. I had four of them. While we will never know which exact one was species 2078 and the last of the surfperch to be added to my list, I had done it. I had caught the last of the surfperch – my collection was complete.

They all got released safely.

The obligatory tank shot.

If nothing else, this blog made me realize that Chris has perfect teeth.

It had taken the better part of 18 years, but I now had a check mark next to every drawing in the surf perch section of my Eastern Pacific go-to fish ID book – A Field Guide to Coastal Fishes From Alaska to California, by Kells, Rocha, and Allen. (And one check mark next to the Tule perch in Peterson’s Guide.) A big thank you to everyone who was along for this project – it was a long time in the making. (And because you asked, there are four more surfperch species, all found in Japan, and I have two of those, Yes, I will finish that someday as well.)

With the “surfperch royal slam” completed, I could turn my attention to catching all the rockfish off the California coast – certainly a much more difficult task. But in the meantime, I would be busy packing for a much more exotic adventure – The Amazon.

Steve

 

 

Posted by: 1000fish | August 31, 2023

She Blinded Me With Science

DATELINE: SEPTEMBER 15, 2022 – DESTIN, FLORIDA

Statement from the Editor: Don’t worry, you’re not the only one who’s confused. You are never the only one who is confused, because I’m here. Yes, the blog jumps from May to September, for the three of you who pay attention. This is because I took two deep water trips to the Gulf of Mexico in 2022, one in May, right after the Freud blog, and another in September. I thought they would naturally fit together. This is my sad attempt to be organized. There are two summer 2022 blogs coming up that happened between the deep drop trips, and these will be up next.

I think we’re all better off now that we know this.

This post is about science and romance. (And, of course, fishing.) If you are not interested in science or romance – and Cousin Chuck has violated the laws of both – please skip to the end. 

And so, Marta set up a weekend in New Orleans. Yes, it is perfectly normal for a couple to go on vacation to New Orleans, but Marta had a higher purpose than jazz and etouffee. She was there for … science.

Yes, my cultural references are dated. Deal with it.

This is not as far-fetched as it sounds. One of the companies she works for, Seatrec, is a game-changer in the Ocean Science world. They manufacture sustainably-powered open-ocean floats that dive and measure a variety of data – temperature, salinity, depth, bathymetry, etc. – which can give us groundbreaking insights on everything from storm prediction to seafloor mapping to whale behavior. The power systems on these floats harvest energy from ocean temperature differences, so they run far longer than outmoded battery-based models. (Resulting in longer missions and significantly more data capture.) The equipment needs to be launched in depths often 100 miles offshore, and Marta hit on the genius idea of partnering with fast fishing charters to accomplish this. The cool part is, if there was time remaining after all the science had been done, I could fish. And this wasn’t just any fishing – the charter, Fish Heads of Cocodrie, Louisiana, specializes in Gulf deep drop stuff that makes me positively drool. Dom had gone with them previously and landed a bunch of amazing species – notably a big marbled grouper.

Oh, how I want this species.       

We pick the story back up on a Thursday, when I was driving from Florida to New Orleans. It was a pleasant journey, except for the massive traffic jam outside Mobile, which is anything but. It was a route filled with memories – the reverse of our course in the fabled 2014 “Bird Flu” episode, except that no one had Bird Flu this time.

I arrived in New Orleans around 7pm, and checked into the hotel that Marta had reserved. After somehow getting all the worms out of the rental car, I settled down to a late jambalaya dinner. Marta was already on the redeye to meet me the next morning.

I randomly walked by the actual scene of the “Bird Flu” incident. We are likely still unwelcome there.

Flying redeye may be hard on Marta, but it’s harder on me. She got to the hotel at 7:20am, which is generally when I am snoring the loudest, but there was no chance for further sleep. She wanted to go, go, go – beignets for breakfast, walking around French quarter just as it was going to bed from the night before, exploring the Faulkner House Bookstore, and then off for museums and other cultural stuff.

French Quarter, 9am. These people have style.

We had been together 18 years (19 now, for those of you in the betting pool,) and never made this pilgrimage. The music, the food, and the culture are all unique and memorable. It had been eight years since I visited, and 12 years since I had been there with my Mom. It’s a marvelous city to walk – or stumble – around.

Jackson Square.

A date with Destiny at Mr. B’s. Highly recommended.

Marta explained that the song is actually about a train.

My undoubted favorite is the National World War Two Museum.

Hanging with FDR.

A Higgins boat, used for landing troops. These were built in New Orleans, and my Uncle Ted, 98 years old and going strong, rode one onto Omaha beach to start his war.

Time passed quickly, a blur of jambalaya, art galleries, and jazz lounges. To Marta’s great annoyance, I paid off one of the piano players to do a Taylor Swift song.

On day two, we visited the New Orleans aquarium, where we found one of the most shameless but unintentionally funny ads I have ever seen.

None of you, especially BP, are fooling anyone. This is like an ammunition company sponsoring an emergency room.

Marta makes friends easily.

We had lunch with Marta’s friend Scott MacKenzie, who runs a highly-regarded podcast called “Industrial Talk” that has covered Seatrec. The dude is awesome and I want to take him fishing. That’s his wife Susie on the left. She is equally awesome.

We also randomly saw this. It must be the best radio station ever. Non-stop REM, U2, and ABBA.

Forty-eight hours went quickly, and then we had to face …

You either get this joke, or you’re under 50.

My relationship with science is complex. I spent the better part of my academic career avoiding it, because you actually have to memorize stuff. I preferred the humanities, where a good essay could always fix things. And yet, as I have aged, my fish obsession has led me more and more toward a basic knowledge of biology, meteorology, and oceanography. And abnormal psychology.

Marta, apart from just being a better person than I am, has always been fascinated with ocean science. Her degree – a BA in Classics – is arguably more useless than my double BA in English and History, but she never avoided the heavy lifting like I did. Many of her jobs (as a consultant in venture capital,) have been heavily technical, and she throws herself into the hard stuff with a reckless abandon that I sometimes resent when it interferes with us binge-watching “Justified.” (FYI: Harlan, Kentucky has replaced Cabot Cove, Maine as the violent crime capital of prime-time television.)

The downside, of course, is that my fishing would not be the main purpose for the day. I would only be able to sneak in an hour or two once all the technical stuff was done. But there were fish species out there I couldn’t get any other way. 

On Sunday evening, we drove to Cocodrie – not far as the crow flies, but a long time on small roads and causeways.

We arrive. Those trees were damaged by Hurricane Ida in 2021 – the area is still recovering.

We stopped and got boat provisions, a process which always points out how different Marta and I are on nutritional paradigms.

I view this as a perfectly valid lunch.

I attempted some shore fishing around the motel. There are a couple of micros there I’m still missing – but I was run off by an incredibly organized group of mosquitoes. I did see a manatee.

Manatees are awesome.

We caught up with the Seatrec group for dinner. I had met some of them in San Diego last year, but this was the first time I had been there for a launch, and the excitement was palpable. The founder of the company, Dr. Yi Chao, was there, although he would not be joining us on the boat. Pioneering Oceanographer though he might be, he gets profoundly seasick, so he calls himself “The Armchair Oceanographer.”

A San Diego fishing outing sponsored by Seatrec, June 2021. Dr. Chao is on the right in the black and red hat. Michael, who is mentioned below, is front row center in the blue shirt.

We were also joined by engineers Michael and Miles. Michael, Seatrec’s VP of Engineering, hails from Germany. Miles, a Texas native, is a Mechatronics engineer. They are both terrifyingly smart but low-key, and they are both passionate surfers. I learned from Michael that humans have been surfing for over 5000 years. 

This is not a Tommy Hilfiger ad. That’s actually Miles on the left and Michael on the right. They were very polite to me and even asked some fishing questions so I could understand some of the conversation.

They were all excited but worried about the launch. They had prepared for every possibly eventuality, but now they would get to see if it all worked in real life. They had done this before, but every expedition carries its own risks. I politely tried to figure out how much running time and launch time we would need, but every time I got close, Marta would cut it off and tell me that they would take however long they needed to take, and remind me that the trip was about science, not me. Sigh.     

Sunset over the bayou.

There were alligators everywhere.

Marta braved the mosquitoes to get this nighttime photo.

Morning came quickly. We met Captain Todd Black, a noted deep-drop expert, who would be running the boat, and mates Lenny Bishop and Branson Marks, great guys and knowledgeable fishermen. We talked a lot about what we could catch out in the deep water of the continental shelf, but first, there was science to be done.

That’s the boat, ready to at some ungodly hour of morning.

Yi and Captain Todd make a few last-minute adjustments.

There is no fun way to describe a very long boat ride. The Fish Heads craft is super fast and the water was calm, but we’re talking 120 miles out and this is a boat made for running, not lounging. We set some bean bags in the back and just stuck it out.

My buttocks will never forget that beanbag.

About four hours later, they pulled back on the throttle and Michael and Miles started their work day. Every time I asked about how long things would take, Marta cut me off and told me it would take however long it would take. Sigh. 

Lenny holds the float while the guys get ready.

Michael (left) and Miles (right) do scientific stuff.

There were a few complications, so we were probably there a couple of hours. I was, of course, apoplectic and dying to know how long things would take, but Marta would not permit this. However long it took, they did finally wrap up and we watched the float descend into the clear, blue water and start its mission. You could see pride and worry etched into each of their faces – this was their project, their baby, and after all the countless hours of engineering and planning, now they had to let it run and hope it all worked. What I didn’t know at the time, as we watched the float go out of sight, is that they would actually need to wait another eight hours for the thing to surface and send its first data back. So they didn’t know it worked for sure until late that evening, but they both looked perfectly calm to me. 

The picture of calmness, although they ate all the cookies in about four minutes. Interestingly, they chose the most nautical of all cookie brands.

It was a couple more hours to reach the water that Todd wanted to fish, but we finally, finally got there. We had about two hours, before we had to make a four-hour run back to the dock. (And keep in mind that Marta had insisted on booking an early flight the next day, AND that we would still have to drive back up to New Orleans AND have dinner with the group that same night.) 

To say I was overeager would be the greatest understatement since Dennis Eckersley said “My, that fly ball is carrying a bit.” I dropped a bait before the boat even finished sliding, and hit the bottom some 850 feet later. The fish didn’t wait long – I got a big bite and hooked something substantial. I had hopes for a grouper, but it didn’t feel like one. Twenty minutes later, a nice golden tilefish surfaced.

I got this species with the Arosteguis in 2014, but it was still a thrill to catch this one.

I managed a couple of other assorted deep reef creatures – nothing new yet, but a lot of action.

For example, a wenchman. I have no idea how they got named.

We moved to progressively shallower reefs, and on one of these, Marta hooked and landed the biggest queen triggerfish I have ever seen – in excess of 10 pounds.

Truly the fish of the trip.

I kept at it, and a couple of stops later, I got a definite grouper on the line – not huge, but a very distinctive, bottom-digging fight. As we got it close, I could see yellow tinges, and as soon as it hit the deck, it was clearly a yellowmouth grouper – a new and unusual species. What long boat ride? Science is amazing!

Species 2076.

The ride back flew by like 240 minutes, but we finally made the dock. The team had succeeded. We got organized, I ate the rest of the devilled eggs, and we headed north. Marta was ecstatic about the launch, I was ecstatic about the fish, and we were all good.

The group back at port. From left to right, that’s deckhands Lenny and Branson (both awesome,) then Michael and Miles from Seatrec, my waistline, me, and Captain Todd. 

Yi hosted a magnificent dinner at the Hilton back up in New Orleans, and somewhere in there, the first transmission came back in from the float. It had worked – and indeed, 15 months later, it is still working and has profiled over 500 times. I have to call that a big win, but I also caught myself imagining how good it would be if I got to fish the whole day. Marta overhead these thoughts, and quietly told me “You were a guest and a token fisherman. You’re lucky you got to fish at all.” Harrumph.

In early September, the process repeated itself, except this time in Destin, Florida. (Scene of the fabled “Editor-in-Chief” episode. Fish Heads moves their operation to Florida for part of the year.) This time, I flew in a day early and could explore a bit of the local shore fishing. In a small harbor just east of town, I managed to scrape up one new species – the longnose killifish.

We jump to species 2104. I told you I had a busy summer.

At dinner, Marta again cut off all conversation that had to do with how much fishing time I would get. Sigh. The group was great, and this time, they would be launching TWO floats. (I unsuccessfully tried to find out if this would take twice as long.) I knew there would be a bit less fishing time, but I wasn’t going to miss deep water in the gulf, even if it was only for a couple of hours. At least I had plenty of Red Bull and two dozen more devilled eggs.

Sunrise over Destin.

The boat heads out to sea.

At least I knew what to expect – about four hours of sitting in a beanbag chair while we raced 100 miles+ out into the gulf. In any normal boat, this would be an impossible day trip, so I’m willing to trade a bit of comfort for a shot at weird fish any day.

Miles is all smiles as the sun comes up.

The water was a touch bumpier than it had been in May, but we still made good progress and got to the launch site mid-morning.

Captain Todd keeps up on track.

The guys did their thing, and I did my best to not look desperately impatient. I was not allowed to ask any questions about how long anything would take.

I did get a few ocean triggerfish while the engineers did their thing. This species seems to materialize whenever a boat stops in the middle of nowhere.

As the launches were wrapping up and I was figuring out rigs for my first few deep drops, there was bad news. It was scientific in nature and I don’t pretend to understand what happened, but we needed to drive a couple of hours not toward the fish to do something related to another project. I started doing the math. Marta told me to stop any calculating and reminded me this was first and foremost a science trip. Captain Todd quietly told me he would find me at least a little window to fish, although the breeze did seem to be picking up.

Mind you, it never got really rough, but when a boat goes over 50mph, every little bump and splash is magnified. We got thoroughly sprayed, although that wasn’t too bad in the sun. I passed the time drinking Red Bull and quietly eating all of the devilled eggs, knowing this would give me terrible revenge on Marta by midnight.

We finally got wherever we needed to and did whatever we needed to. Captain Todd closely examined a map and the weather report. It didn’t look good, but he had one spot we could try for scamp grouper on the way back. That was about two hours away, then it would be three more to Destin. I counted the bumps, splashes, and minutes, and yes, it seemed like a heck of a long time. 

When they finally cut the throttle, I jumped up to fish. I had lost track of the conditions while we were running, and it had actually laid down quite a bit. Todd explained that there were plenty of scamp in this spot, but also plenty of bull sharks, and that I would have to reel up anything I hooked as hard and fast as I could. 

I wasn’t fast enough. I hooked a big fish on my first drop, and reeled as hard as I possibly could. I even got to see deep color – it was a big scamp, at least 15 pounds. But the bull shark that took it was at least 300 pounds, and I was left with a set of grouper lips. This did not please me.

(Perspectives from Marta – Do you remember the Heatmeiser from “The Year Without a Santa Claus?” Steve looked like that.)

She always thinks this is funny. But it isn’t.

I rigged and dropped again quickly, and hooked a much smaller fish. I blazed it to the surface – it was a red snapper, always welcome but not a new species.

I’m always glad to catch these, but I wanted something new. From the left, that’s Miles, Michael, me, and Captain Todd.

I dropped again, understanding that I only had a couple chances left. I hooked up, and again, I cranked for all I was worth. Moments later, I could see a small scamp under the boat, being chased by the same big bull shark. I ripped it out of the water a split second ahead of Bruce, and I had put one on the board. 

My scamp. Species 2105.

Needless to say, I don’t remember any of the delays, the bumps, or the spray. I only remember getting a new fish. The day was a triumph for me, and doubly so for the Seatrec guys. They had launched two floats. Data that could help change our world for the better would be delivered in a few short hours.

So we were all happy – me, the crew, the Seatrec guys, and even Marta, at least until the devilled eggs manifested.

Relaxing on the dock after a successful day.

Destin is known for seafood, and we celebrated that night with an excellent dinner, even though the restaurant seemed to have been decorated specifically to annoy me. It was like some sort of weird “Fish Steve Hasn’t Caught Hall of Fame.”

A gulf flounder?

And a spearfish? This is not a coincidence.

The locals were friendly at least. The guy on the right actually recognized me from a fishing magazine. I have never let Marta forget this.

A later photo with the Seatrec gang – L-R – Miles, Yi. me, Josh (another one of the really smart engineering types,) and Michael.

That same evening, data began coming back from the floats, leading to a sense of triumph and relief. Again, they had gotten everything right, and these scientists – people who had been willing to take classes with no essays – had made the world a better place. 

A month or so after this launch, one of the floats had a mechanical problem. (It was an older, non-Seatrec model. The power system was fine – something non-Seatrec had gone wrong. Seatrec has since developed their own line of equipment, the infiniTE™ float, which seem to be vastly better than previous technology.) The guys hired Fish Heads to rescue it for repair, and on this venture, which went quickly and allowed for plenty of fishing time, they got to do some of deep dropping. They got two bites.

This was the second one. Yes, I’ve caught a swordfish, but not anywhere close to this big. That’s Miles and Josh with the fish of a lifetime. Good on them. I wonder if I would be so thrilled if they had gotten a marbled grouper.

So science and fishing aren’t mutually exclusive, but of course, the patience I lack is important in both. I can’t thank Dr. Yi Chao and Seatrec enough for the opportunity to be there for their accomplishments and to share their boat, and I look forward to future adventures with them. Hopefully ones where we can launch close to shore and have loads of time left over to fish. Just saying. 

Steve

Posted by: 1000fish | August 6, 2023

Fishing With Sigmund

DATELINE: MAY 12, 2022 – DEFUNIAK SPRINGS, FLORIDA

Most trips have at least a few successes, although there are exceptions to this. But oftentimes, I remember just as well the things we didn’t catch. (Especially the ones that were supposed to be slam dunks.) Marta tells me that I obsess about these fish, and that I stay up late at night plotting “revenge” trips to catch them. It’s how my mind works, and if we get a therapist involved, they might be able to explain that while this outlook motivates accomplishment, it can be a dark place to live.

My constant fishing companion, Freud believed that obsessional neuroses is a defense mechanism against unconscious conflicts. But what the heck would he know?

In looking at the 2021 “Schrödinger’s Collie” trip, I was thrilled at how many species Dom and I had gotten … but I was also keenly aware we missed plenty. The brown darter was still out there – and we had seen a few of those. So was the bronze darter, and a host of others. We got talking about a second round, to get after these points of diminishing return, but the schedule Gods were not favoring us. We both work full time, after all.

We eventually agreed that I would fly to Miami and fish a couple of days with Dom. I would then drive myself back through the panhandle, Alabama, and Mississippi, then meet Marta in New Orleans for a few days. That part of the trip will be the next blog, and it will involve science and romance, so stay tuned.

Dom is fond of saying “Steve, you’re a hard guy to buy a gift for.” In the fishing world, he’s right. It’s tough to find anywhere I have a big batch of uncaught species, especially in Florida. So we will ignore the aforementioned law of diminishing returns, and point out that there are still a few creatures near Dom’s house that have eluded me. Dom generously took two days off, and we did some very selective targeting – and just hoped for a bit of luck.

The first day was on Dom’s boat, which should be named “Proof of Tracy’s Patience.”

I also discovered that Dom owns a dog. Her name is Phoebe. You can take it from there.

The weather report looked great, but those people LIE. The first few hours were nice, and we gave it an honest shot for a deepwater scorpionfish, which were unfortunately outcompeted by blackbelly rosefish.

The saltwater equivalent of creek chubs. I will come back for the scorpionfish – see a pattern here?

As we headed back inshore to try for some shallower critters, it got windy. Really windy. Not quite Wizard of Oz, but enough to push up a sloppy chop. 

I’m usually immune to throwing up on boats, because I fear that some terrible person will take pictures of me and post them on social media. I knew this particular afternoon would be challenging, not the least because it was hard to actually fish and hold on at the same time. (And you can imagine how difficult this made bathroom trips. It’s a feat of athleticism to hit a target while you and it are both moving, especially if you’re facing the other way with your pants around your ankles.) 

It was late in the afternoon, just when I was ready to throw up the towel, that we had our first success. We got onto a group of striped grunts – a species Dom explained he had only caught on this one patch. That’s what local experience will do for you.

Species 2063.

The water continued to worsen. The big sandwich I brought was out of the question, but I got by on Red Bull and chips. Dom cheered me on and told me if we could make it past dark we had shots at a couple of other species, so I hung in there. His enthusiasm is boundless and inspiring.

As the light faded, we moved over to a couple of small reefs, quite close to shore, and rigged up tiny sabikis.

Those are fires off in the Everglades. Note the south wind. No, it never looks as rough as it really was, but trust me, it was icky out there.

We made a few chaotic drifts, then tried to tie up, which was even bouncier. Thankfully, somewhere in there, a small squirrelfish climbed on the hook. It was a dusky squirrelfish, we had our second species of the day, and, thank goodness, we could go home. But there was a whitespotted filefish still out there for me someplace. Dr. Freud would be concerned that my main takeaway was missing a fish neither me nor Dom had even seen, but there’s only so much time to do this. I’m not Jung any more.

The dusky squirrel, which would also be a good name for a drink. Or a bar.

We were up early the next morning to pursue another “grudge fish” – the sand drum. EVERYONE I know has caught dozens of these shallow-water croakers on their first try. I just never seemed to find the right day. We did everything right this time – we went to Hobe Sound, we used light rigs and shrimp, we cast in very thin water just off the beach.

Dom works the shoreline.

And I caught … mojarras. And more mojarras. I moved the bait, I let it sit, I tried big and small pieces. I dealt with a local who demanded I stop fishing because “the hooks might hurt my dog.” Johnny Cash should have written a song about “A Man Named Karen.”

An hour later, I had a better bite and saw elongate, non-mojarral silver flashes at the end of my line. I said a quick anti-Atlantic croaker prayer and lifted the fish up. The sand drum has vertical bars – I didn’t see them immediately, but after the fish was out of the water just a moment, the stripes became evident. I had done it, with a huge assist from a very patient Dom, who was now getting an earful from the same male Karen. Folks, it’s legal to fish on this beach and we are always fastidious about litter and equipment. Lighten up. (With all apologies to anyone really named Karen.)

Species 2065.

We then headed down to Phil Foster Park, on the intercoastal in Riviera Beach. This place is a gem, but get there early – people are many and parking is scarce. Dom generously dropped me off, parked back across the bridge, and walked back. 

The place was jammed with screaming picnic raves, but there were a number of species in evidence. My new one for the day was the savage eyed flounder, taking me to 2066.

I am always thrilled with a flatfish that can be identified. I have at least six in my “mystery” file.

I also got some other cool stuff, like a trunkfish and a rosy razorfish, but alas, these are already on the list. Of course, I missed the dusky jawfish and the orangespotted filefish. But I’ll be back.

These things fight like crazy.

If I had to pick one shore spot in this part of Florida, it would be here. As long as you can find parking.

Redtail parrotfish with some of the other pier anglers. These were the locals, here to catch dinner, and they were the most savvy and fun group on the pier.

Dom and I parted ways, and early the next morning, I headed north. Well, not very far north, because I just had to make a brief stop at one of Ben’s mountain mullet spots. How hard could it be? Sigh. They were hard to find, but I eventually found a culvert stuffed with them. And that’s how I spent the rest of my day – watching those awful fish half-heartedly examine my bread offering until a Mayan cichlid or bluegill raced in and ate it.

To top it all off, I forgot my phone in the car and thought it had fallen out of my pocket – there is no panic like lost phone panic. (Freud would have a field day with modern society and the cell phone.)

The next morning, old friend Ben Cantrell generously took me for a morning session of shark fishing, with an eye on finetooth. (Be aware that Florida requires a special shore-based shark fishing license, which requires an online course, which I ended up doing in the middle of the night.)

Ben Cantrell, world-class species hunter and all-around good guy.

We ended up with two fish, both blacknoses. There are very few things as exciting as a shark strike on surf gear.

My first blacknose was in 2012 with Martini, and was about as close to losing a fish I will ever get without losing it. But I still didn’t have a finetooth.

This news was greeted with great joy in Ben’s house. His girlfriend Ally, also a species hunter, had never caught a blacknose and was eager to get out after one. She got hers the following weekend – and she also got a finetooth the same season. Dr. Freud would tell me to take joy in her accomplishment.

There’s Ally’s blacknose.

 

And a shore-caught spinner. Just because it’s an awesome photo.

I kept heading north. Florida is a big state, and it can be hours and hours between spots. I tried one lake for redface topminnows. I caught plenty of fish, just not the right ones, and wading with snakes and alligators made me slightly nervous. But I would still come back and try again. I already see a “Revenge on the Revenge Tour” in my future.

Look at all the hiding places for dangerous wildlife.

Topminnows are so cool, even though they are sometimes hard to differentiate from killifish. This is a lined topminnow, a species I also added with Martini.

After my third snake sighting, I got out of the water and headed for the main event – a rematch with the brown darter, this time at Rum Island Springs. 

One of Florida’s most beautiful places, until dusk, when it turns into a mosquito-infested hellhole.

Browns are a tricky darter. They like heavy vegetation close to shore, and when they spook, they tend to spook right back into the heavy vegetation. It took a couple of hours to prod one out where I could see it, and then, of course, I botched the presentation and it spooked right back into the heavy vegetation. As the light grew crepuscular, (Marta taught me that word,) I finally got a shot at one more. The bait laid down perfectly, the fish pounced on it, and I swung it up onto the shore before the hook could fall out.

This was a big deal. And the fifth species of the trip. Another big thanks to Dr. Alvin Diamond of Troy University – he coached me and Dom in the behavior of this species, or I would still be looking for one.

The next morning started in Northern Florida, where I opened up with a fully confirmed metallic shiner. This replaced the Pteronotropis from last year’s trip on my species list, for you fellow fish nerds. That fish was likely an Apalachee by location, but my photos were bad enough where I couldn’t ID it on meristics, so it goes in the mystery file. And on the list for the next tour. Sigmund would be shaking his head sadly.

Photo tanks sure do help. My pics aren’t Ben or Eli-level, but these are still a gorgeous species.

It was then back in the car for several hours and at least one stop at Arby’s. The destination – a small creek in Southeastern Alabama, which was supposed to have several darter species (especially the bronze.) I got there midafternoon, and it was truly a special location. 

A la Estillfork, there were darters showing on every step. That seam on the left still makes me drool.

I got a few speckled darters, then a mystery one I couldn’t immediately identify, then a Tallapoosa. 

The speckled. My first one was also in Alabama, and I never get tired of photographing them.

The mystery darter. It turned out to be a bronze. If I had known that at the time, it would have saved me a lot of driving.

The Tallapoosa, species number eight of the trip.

A local couple came down to the creek with gold dredging equipment, which could have clouded up the water and ended my day, but they very courteously asked what I was doing and offered to move downstream.

Disaster averted. Very nice people.

While we spoke, they asked what I was targeting. I told them, and they both lit up – “Another guy came by last year doing the same thing. Nice fellow, from Chicago, and he was wearing some kind of wetsuit-Cosmonaut thing.” These people had met Gerry Hansell.

My favorite snorkel-fishing picture of Gerry, because, despite distractions, he remains focused on the fish.

As it got toward evening, I kept missing big bronze darters, but I also had a spot about 20 miles away reputed to have rare shiners, so I reluctantly drove over there. I fished that for about an hour and got some lovely shiners, although I was losing quite a few at the surface.

I could walk around creeks like this every day for the rest of my life, unless the Red Wings are in the playoffs. And I have to come back here, because there are Tallapoosa shiners that I missed. Some of you might say my glass is always half-empty, but I say it has enough water to hold a fish.

I finally figured out that the point of my micro-hook had broken off. Duh. That’s why I was losing all the darters back at the other spot. Throwing schedule to the winds, I drove back to the original creek, arriving just as it got dark. Checking my hookpoint and headlamp, I waded in and immediately caught several beautiful bronze darters.

Now that you mention it, I shouldn’t have missed the ID in the first place. I was still thrilled with the bigger specimens.

My evening ended when I somehow buried a hook in my nostril and had to dig it out with pliers and the selfie view on my iPhone. Kids, beware the tenago – they are sharp and difficult to extract. And I had to do this while I considered that I hadn’t caught the muscadine darter. Somewhere, Dr. Freud is smiling patiently.

The following day had a travel plan so stupid only I could have concocted it. I had a spot in Mississippi, but I needed to end up back in the Florida panhandle. A smart person would have waited for another trip, but I drove three hours one way, fished three hours, and then five hours back to the panhandle. (All without passing a single Cracker Barrel, which is where I had wanted to eat all darn day.)

The creek was a gem, perfect for wading. It produced quite a few darters and an assortment of shiners.

Another perfect back country creek, although this one was actually in the middle of a decent-sized town.

Example darter – a blackstripe, which I had added in Alabama last year.

In sorting through the photos, it was determined that only one of the fish was a new one – the aptly named pretty shiner, but this alone made the day worth it. Even though I could have gotten a couple of others.

The ninth species of the trip.

In the midst of all this driving, I bought Marta a souvenir. She hasn’t worn it yet – she swears she is waiting for the right outfit to match it.

Late that evening, I pulled into DeFuniak Springs, Florida, and got some rest. The next day would be the last fishing of this episode, but I had some very big plans.

At a reasonable hour of morning, after several plates of Holiday Inn eggs and sausage, I headed out to a local creek to flesh out my Pteronotropis list. This shiner family are gorgeous if difficult to differentiate, but I had some excellent intel and a well-worn Peterson’s Guide. First, I added the flagfin – the easiest of the group to identify.

They do make a nice photo.

An hour later, I got what ended up being a sailfin. I can’t thank Dom – and all the other folks who passed along these spots – enough.

This fish would not pose in the photo tank.

There was one more place to go that afternoon, and a very old score to settle. 

The Dixie chub can be an aggravating creature. It looks enough like a creek chub to make you doubt yourself, and its range is always 100 miles south of where you are. I thought I had one several times, only to find out the scale count was wrong and that I was 100 miles north of their range. This spot – a small creek winding through a country neighborhood – was definitely in range and also may be the one place in the universe that doesn’t have creek chubs. 

It wasn’t dramatic – these are chubs. I got one on my first cast, counted and recounted the scales, and just like that, I had added what I thought was the 12th and last species of a very successful trip.

Finally.

But I always have a second look, and after a few more chubs, I noticed there was a long, slender fish keeping to itself at the top of a riffle. It looked and behaved like a darter, so I gave it a shot. It bit, and it wasn’t a darter at all – it was a longjaw minnow, an unusual member of the overall shiner/minnow complex I had only seen in books.

That was 13 for the trip, taking me to 2075. I was thrilled, momentarily.

I put away the fishing gear, pulled out a Red Bull, and set the map for New Orleans. I had avenged myself on several species, but there were still a good few I hadn’t gotten. (Of course I thought of this immediately. Sigmund would have an explanation, but I’ll just keep fishing and leave the analysis to the professionals.)

There would be more fishing in a few days, but not before at least 72 hours of romance … and science.

Steve

 

Posted by: 1000fish | July 17, 2023

Back Home Again in Indiana

DATELINE: APRIL 12, 2022 – SOUTHERN INDIANA
The other night, Marta and I started listing all the different addresses we have had in our lifetimes. I lost count at over 20, and that only took me through age 33. While I think we’ve put some roots down in California, I moved so much as a kid that it never really felt like I was FROM somewhere, where people have known each other forever. I was always the new kid in school. I developed my sports loyalties in Michigan, but I’ve never lived as an adult anyplace where a Tigers hat is anything but a curiosity, and I still wasn’t born into that.
I was actually born in Indiana, some ungodly number of years ago, and with as many friends as I have there, I have visited frequently and started to connect more with my Hoosier roots. My friends there have all been residents for life, know everyone in town, and have the same inside jokes and frames of reference. That still doesn’t mean that I would root for the Colts over the Lions, but I don’t think that’s a Super Bowl we’re going to have to worry about any time soon.

I arrive wearing a confusing mix of football accessories. The mask was a mistake – nothing wearing a Lions logo could stop a pandemic, or even a defensive end.

This trip had a very specific purpose that lent itself to a lot of non-fishing activities, so for those of you who don’t like that stuff, the summary is: two species and a world record. For the rest of you, especially Steve Ramsey, who is going to relive some difficult moments, grab a tall glass of vodka and let’s get to it.

I chose Indiana in mid-April because that is when the blue suckers are supposed to run. I had this on very good information – the celebrated Ron and Jarrett of Bloomington – but the tough part would be predicting exactly when it would happen. It has come in early April. It has come in late April. But it’s always in that general timeframe. So I set up a lengthy stay with Steve in Indianapolis and figured we could eat Skyline Chili until the fish showed up. Due to work commitments, I couldn’t cover the end of the window, but I figured I had to catch some part of the action.

For the less erudite of my readers, the blog title is not a weak description of the trip. It’s the title of a song that Jim Nabors sung before the Indy 500 every year from 1972 to 2014.

I’m dead serious. It is little known outside Indiana that Nabors had a lovely singing voice. We own his Christmas album.

The blue sucker is a true unicorn – catchable only a few days a year, unless you’re Tyler Goodale and can land them at will. April is always an iffy weather month in the midwest, so I had to be prepared for anything from blizzards to sunburn, meaning I had an impressive amount of equipment stuffed into two large rolling duffels. Ramsey was astonished at how quickly the gear spread throughout his otherwise-tidy abode, and he dryly stated “My house looks like the gas main exploded in Dick’s Sporting Goods.”

We hit the ground running. My flight got in at 5:30pm, and we were at Skyline Chili 45 minutes later.

There is enough Skyline Chili in front of me to destroy four normal digestive systems.

Five hot dogs and a four-way later, we were on our way downtown, where we scrounged up tickets to the Pacers-76ers game.

Steve and Steve outside the fieldhouse.

My friend Pam was at the same game, but she was in the Mayor’s Suite (as she was his assistant at the time.) When I half-jokingly told her we would drop by, she firmly let me know that security would stop us.

Challenge accepted.

We watched the Pacers get clobbered by Philadelphia, and toward the 4th quarter, I decided to surprise Pam. It was fairly easy to get in – Pam was right by the door and I left Steve as a deposit with the guards.

Our wristbands for the VIP booth.

The next day, we had tickets for an Indianapolis Indians baseball game. The weather was iffy, however, and they ended up calling the game. This made Steve grumpy.

Note the grumpy look.

Uncanny.

Steve and I wandered the town a bit, stopping at the USS Indianapolis memorial. The place always gives me a knot in my throat.

The memorial.

The USS Indianapolis was a heavy cruiser that delivered parts for the Hiroshima bomb to Tinian. On the return voyage, she was sunk by a Japanese submarine. Due to mishandled distress calls, the survivors were not discovered for four days, by which time most of them had been eaten by sharks or died of exposure. Only 316 out of 1195 men survived. The incident is the subject of Robert Shaw’s famous, indeed, Quintessential, soliloquy in “Jaws.”

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“I’ll never put on a lifejacket again. So, eleven hundred men went in the water, three hundred and sixteen men come out, the sharks took the rest, July the 30th, 1945. Anyway, we delivered the bomb.”

Late in the afternoon, we were reminiscing around places I used to live and misbehave in northeast Indianapolis, and trying to think of something to do for the evening. From this stage forward, my recollection and Steve’s differ somewhat, but here is my version –

Around 5:50pm, while randomly searching the internet, I discovered that there was a Fort Wayne Komets (minor league hockey) game at 7:00 that evening. In Fort Wayne, 105 miles away. I told Steve I thought we could make it and miss no more than the first few minutes. Steve is very good at math and suggested we would miss a lot more and gently advised we try it another night. I submitted again that I felt we could do it. I describe what followed as a “buddies road trip.” Steve describes it as “a hostage situation.” Whatever it was, we were going too fast for him to jump out of the car. I obtained tickets online while I was driving, which also did not thrill Steve, and we made the close of the first period.

Steve and Steve at Allen County War Memorial Coliseum.

Steve with an especially kind souvenir vendor. They were out of shirts that said “Fort Wayne,” so she sold me the one she was wearing.

We figured we could just stop at a Denny’s on the way home, but another messed up thing Covid gave us is 24-hour restaurants that close at 10pm. We ended up getting White Castle carryout at 1am.

Steve got onion chips – I had forgotten to, but he shared his with me. Can you imagine a person awful enough not to do this? Carol??

In sending the Hoosier information to my sister, we jointly discovered that the hockey arena is less than one mile from the house my parents lived when I was born.

I was as surprised as you not to see this on the national register of historic places.

The next day, we got to see an Indians baseball game, in the Mayor’s box, courtesy of Pam, who had forgiven me for the thing at the Pacers game.

Victory Field, home of the Indians – they are Pittsburgh’s AAA team, although some would argue that Pittsburgh is a AAA team.

From R-L, that’s Pam (our host,) the ever-patient Ron Feeney, his wife Carol who won’t share onion chips, me, Steve, and Ron’s son Brian.

Pam routinely catches foul balls at the games. I have never gotten a foul ball at a baseball game, and she doesn’t let me forget this.

But Steve and I weren’t done. There was an Indianapolis Fuel (same league as the Komets) game that night – mercifully in town. This is not the first time we have done two sporting events in a day.

Yes, we were that close to the ice. I could smell the referee.

What’s hockey without some blood on the ice?

They just let me in the penalty box. Like I belonged there.

Of course, when we got home, the specter of Little Bit was waiting for me.

Every day, I checked in with the guys, and every day, they said that the water was still low and the fish hadn’t started appearing. So Steve and I visited the US Air Force Museum in Dayton.

In front of the Memphis Belle, one of the first, and certainly the most famous, of the B-17 bombers to survive 25 missions over occupied Europe. Note the Fort Wayne Komets hat.

Moments later, there was a fire alarm and the museum was evacuated. I diverted to the bathroom while Steve ended up outside, in the freezing rain, with no jacket, and without the car keys, and no way to let me know where he was. I blame him because he did not have a cell phone.

At the time of this trip, Steve had the last corded phone in the tri-state area. Some of you kids may not recognize this equipment – ask your grandparents.

Now that there were only a few days to go before my flight home, I called Ron and Jarrett, and we jointly decided to go fishing and hope the run started while we were there. (I didn’t say this was a good plan.)

So I drove south and met up with the guys. It was great to see them both, and as a special bonus, Gerry Hansell joined us, all the way from Chicago. (And he’s caught a blue before.)

That’s Gerry and Ron from a gar fishing trip last year.

The first day was unfortunately what we expected – no blues. We got plenty of silver carp and some other assorted spillway critters, but the big run hadn’t started.

Like most of the midwest, the place was jammed with silver carp. While these invasives certainly pull hard, they have changed fisheries throughout the region.

One of my carp had a lamprey attached – would any of you count this as a species catch? I did not, but I thought about it. Let me know your thoughts in comments.

We did see a few blue suckers jump, so we knew there was at least a chance, but generally, the bite isn’t good unless the river is running a lot higher.

This is the river in typical blue sucker conditions. This photo was taken only a few days after I was there.

Instead, conditions looked more like this. In a few days, where are standing in this photo would be under 10 feet of water.

As it got late, Gerry and I asked if there were any other species to try nearby, just to get something on the scoreboard. This led to an interesting but very long evening.

Ron and Jarrett mentioned a creek a couple hours away that had a good shot at some darters and possibly a pirate perch. We got there around 9pm, parked, and donned our waders. (Except for Ron, who already had his waders because he hasn’t taken them off in at least three years.) In no more than five minutes, it became obvious the place was pretty much lifeless. It was just too cold. We gave it a try, but it was not going to happen there that night.

Steve and Ron doing the “darter crouch” – a recent Taylor Swift dance sensation.

We huddled near the car, trying not to shiver in front of each other, and Gerry and I, ever the optimists, looked at Ron and Jarrett imploringly to see if there was anything else we could try. Mind you, these men will act modest and not say anything, but, in my opinion, they are the two premier darter fishermen in the world. Jarrett broke the previously unthinkable 100 barrier a while back and is currently over 120. Ron has 102. These guys are experts, and all I can say is “We’re not worthy.”

They looked at each other uncomfortably. Jarrett reluctantly volunteered that there was another spot, 90 more minutes away, that held spotted darters. These are a rare and difficult species, and even though it meant getting home in the wee hours and getting very little sleep, we were good to go.

Sometime around 11:30, we pulled up at a small, beautifully clear creek somewhere between Evansville and Mexico. It was memorably cold, and our breath made large clouds as we walked down to inspect the water. The current was fast, even in the shallower areas, but the place was lousy with darters and even I found one fairly quickly.

I don’t remember the exhaustion or the cold – I just remember the triumph of getting this fish.

I also caught a nicely-colored male a few minutes later.

We were started to wrap up so we could get home and catch at least a few hours of sleep before we would have to be at the dam again, but I did something stupid. I saw a darter that looked a bit different. I caught it. Jarrett was right there and was the first to recognize it – “That’s a bluebreast!” he said. While I have caught a bluebreast, Gerry had not, and once he saw the fish, he justifiably wasn’t going anywhere. So we kept fishing.

A stubborn if exhausted crew, sometime around 2:30am – from L-R, Steve. Ron, Gerry, and Jarrett.

Unfortunately, Gerry did not succeed, but it was worth the try. We got back to the hotel just before dawn. I caught a quick nap, then headed back to the spillway – you need to arrive early as it can get crowded by mid-morning.

The spillway is accessed via a steep, slippery, and unstable metal ramp. We call it “the ski jump.”

There were clearly more blue suckers – we saw 20 or more jump – but this was still not the main run. So we patiently soaked baits and cast small jigs and hoped. There were more silver carp and something big, likely a sturgeon, that nearly spooled me and broke off, but no blues.

The guys, all waiting for the right bite.

Midafternoon, Gerry decided that he would start back to Illinois, and Jarrett and Ron headed off for some of their assorted responsibilities. A few hours later, with no ill intent, I was casting a jig and worm along a slack seam and got a couple of hits. On the third try, I hooked up, and to my great surprise, landed a spotted sucker. I cast right back and got another one.

I’ll be darned.

I texted out the news. I had previously caught a spotted sucker, but both Gerry and Jarrett hadn’t. This was more than grounds for Gerry to drive four hours back to fish the next morning.

I also, bizarrely, caught a log perch on a #4 hook.

Sunset on the way home. It’s a beautiful state, even if no one knows what a Hoosier actually is.

Needless to say, there were no more spotted suckers the next day. (Although Jarrett got his a week later.) But I respected Gerry for making the trip – irrational effort is also one of my main strategies. In the meantime, there were now dozens of blue suckers jumping, but no bites. I knew that the main group of blues would arrive any moment now, but I was running out of time. As the day went on, we did get to meet a few important people, like Jarrett’s girlfriend Phoebe, and also Brant Fisher, an Indiana biologist who is remarkably helpful on fish IDs and locations.

Phoebe took the photo. Which is a shame, because she is much better-looking than anyone in the shot. From L-R, that’s Gerry, Steve, Brant, Jarrett, and Ron.

Somewhere in there, Jarrett caught a beautiful shorthead redhorse.

I’ve never gotten one this big.

Gerry hit the road around 3:30 and asked me to not to text him for at least a day if I caught anything good, and Ron left shortly afterward to spend time with his family.

You’ll all feel better to know that Gerry got his first sevengill shark in San Francisco a few weeks later. He caught it on Captain Don Franklin’s Sole Man Sportfishing – highly recommended if you’re in the area.

That left just me and Jarrett staring at the rod tips. I was due for dinner up in Indianapolis shortly, and if I wanted time to shower, I would need to leave in about half an hour. 4:00pm came and went, and there were so many blue suckers jumping I just knew one would bite any second. (There is such a fine line between optimism and stupidity.)

At 4:50, when I was facing going directly to the restaurant in my fishing clothes, I got a bite. It was a quick rattle, so I picked up the rod and waited, and when the fish rattled again, I reeled into it and the fight was on. It felt different than anything I had hooked over the past few days, but I didn’t dare say anything out loud. Jarrett grabbed the net and waited for whatever it was to surface. Pagan or not, all fishermen get religion at these moments, and I was praying blue sucker prayers and trying to steer the fish to Jarrett. “IT’S A BLUE!” he yelled, half-excited, half-astonished, and he made short work of it with the net.

We jumped up and down and hugged and I whooped like I had just won the Stanley Cup, causing some fishermen up by the dam to come down and make sure I wasn’t having a seizure. Note the Fort Wayne “Mad Ants” hat – a gift from Ramsey which brough me good luck. The Ants are an NBA G League team, and are NOT named after the insect. They are named after General “Mad Anthony” Wayne, who Fort Wayne is named after.

Steve, Jarrett, and the fish. They have a tiny mouth and live in heavy current, so they among the hardest of the sucker species to catch.

At 2.75 pounds, the fish was more than big enough to fill the open record on the species. (But they get bigger, so hopefully one of the guys gets one soon.) We did the weighing and measuring, safely released him back into river, and I was on my way to Skyline Chili, arriving with just enough time to wipe my hands on my pants and dig into six chili dogs.

I had waited a long time to add one of these rare and beautiful fish to my list, and I can’t thank Ron and Jarrett enough for all of their time, patience, and kindness with me. These guys are experts in their craft and have astonishing local knowledge and I look forward to fishing with them again soon. And of course I have to thank Steve Ramsey, who put up with me as a roommate for something like 10 days, while helping me gain much more of a sense of where I’m from. He is the one who truly suffered the most here.

Steve

SPECIAL BONUS SECTION

A week after the Indiana trip, Chris Moore, The Mucus, and Luke Ovgard all met up on the central coast for a day of rockfishing that was memorable only for the brutal conditions.

The gang after Luke and Mucus stopped barfing. Interestingly, thanks to Scopolomine, Chris did not go rail bunny.

But The Mucus caught the only ling cod. Of course.

Gratuitous Mucus photo.

The next day, we were fishing with local species genius Vince (@prickly_sculpin). Thanks to his spot and tactics, I managed another solid Sacramento blackfish, which would go in the books as world record number 220.

Which is still less than half of Marty Arostegui’s total.

 

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